A night of food (and jazz) at Books & Records

“What kind of food?” ask my parents, as we approach the new Bankers Hill restaurant, Books & Records. The question forces me to stop a moment.

“I should probably know the answer to that,” answers the food writer who chose the place.

Food actually hadn’t been on my mind when I booked this reservation. Never mind that the very name invokes my two most cherished media formats. What chiefly caught my attention, when it opened last month, is that the place hosts live jazz performances during weekend dinner hours. It’s the sort of outing I haven’t enjoyed since Croce’s closed.

Physically, Books & Records replaces a different fondly remembered spot, Bankers Hill Bar & Restaurant. That restaurant shuttered “temporarily” three years ago for an announced move, but which currently only exists as a branded concession at Terminal 2 of San Diego International Airport. However, back here on Fourth Street, the surrounds are familiar — the new restaurateurs have left much of the old space intact; even the Bankers Hill sign remains out front. The most noticeable change may be the small, dedicated stage area near the bar.

The former home of Bankers Hill Bar & Restaurant, now home to new bar and restaurant Books & Records

But the food? Of course, I’ve looked at the menu. It’s just too all over the place to encapsulate: duck carnitas, tempura mushrooms, and tuna carpaccio don’t merely reflect different cultures, but different continents.

“Global influences,” our helpful waiter suggests. He adds something about how the owners want guests to enjoy favorites from around the world. Or something. The music has started — a three person combo playing standards with a gypsy jazz sound — so my attention’s divided. Our party agrees to share a few recommended starters, including the Prince Edward Island mussels, served in a green coconut curry ($20), and I resume listening.

Prince Edward Island sourced mussels in a green curry broth

Actually, starters aren’t the right word our dishes. The menu’s broken up into sections dubbed Prologue, Foreshadowing, and Crescendo. Under Prologue are conventional starters, such as Baja oysters ($18/six, $32/dozen) and the carpaccio ($21). But we mostly order from the Foreshadowing section, which offers the tempura, zucchini fries ($10), broccoli, and carbonara mac n’ cheese ($14). Then Crescendo features the likes of mussels and seafood fettucini ($30), but also a charred cabbage dish ($22). What’s the difference between a starter and side dish anyway?

The point of nixing recognizable labels for these small plates may be to promote sharing. Books & Records has joined the trend of sharable entrees too: the $60 duck carnitas are prepared to serve 3 to 4 people. The $80 short rib and $58 whole seabass are also meant to serve more than a single diner. We’ll wind up sharing the fish, which is prepared in the style of al pastor — meaning seasoned with achiote and dressed with grilled pineapples, not roasted on a rotisserie. Butterflied, and topped with a pile of fresh herbs including cilantro and radicchio, the seabass doesn’t offer as much visual pop as I’d hoped. But the local (Ensenada) fish has been cooked to moist, tender perfection.

Ensenada sourced seabass, butterflied and grilled with achiote, grilled pineapple, and herbs including cilantro and radicchio

However, despite my inability to capture great food photos, by the time our table starts eating the seabass, I’ve almost forgotten about the music. Turns out, the food should have been what brought me here all along.

Remember those mussels I mentioned? The curry is outstanding. Once we’ve cleared the mussels from their shells, my dad and I race to soak it all up with the slices of toast provided. We also find ourselves competing for the last tempura maitake mushrooms ($18), while my mom and I joust for the charred broccoli ($14). Somehow, labneh (strained yogurt), chili crunch, yuzu ponzu, and crushed peanuts make the green vegetable taste better than could be reasonably expected from anything cruciferous.

Charred broccoli with yuzu ponzu, crushed peanuts, chili crunch sauce, and labneh

Point is, whatever you call the food, I’ve rarely seen such a nebulous culinary concept executed so well. So, after the fact, I decide to take note of the chef behind the food. And learn it’s Sam Deckman, who reportedly grew up learning to cook alongside his father, acclaimed Valle de Guadalupe chef Drew Deckman. Apparently, the younger has been raised to have high standards and great taste, because my own father and I agree: this is the best tasting meal we’ve had this year.