The Pub at Lake Cuyamaca gives new meaning to “elevated” bar food

If we were going to drive 50 miles, at bare minimum I wanted to find a decent meal at the other side. I don’t feel like that was too demanding — there didn’t need to be a lake view, or anything. A lucky break then, that there happened to be both.

So, though none of our tickets hit the billion-dollar lottery, we did hit a jackpot of sorts by taking a weekend drive out to The Pub at Lake Cuyamaca. Yes, there’s fishing and hiking, fresh air and greenery at the lake, but judging by the number of motorcycles and sports cars we spotted cruising those windy mountain roads, we weren’t the only ones mainly out for a joyride and patio dining.

It's not new that there’s a place to eat in building that sits above Lake Cuyamaca, but a year ago this month the eatery got a major upgrade, courtesy of the same folk who operate Convoy mainstay, O’Brien’s Pub. Which would make the boost to the beer selection a no brainer — not only is there good stuff on tap, but also being sold in in the venue’s adjacent tackle shop. It’s the sort of convenience store that sells bait and camping-friendly foodstuffs (like the brand that sells peanut butter and jelly in the same jar); this one also offers bottles of barrel-aged ale.

Perhaps more importantly, like O’Brien’s, the Pub at Lake Cuyamaca serves elevated pub fare: in this case smoked chicken wings ($20), wagyu beef burgers ($13-20), and what may be the crispiest fish ‘n’ chips I’ve enjoyed this side of the Atlantic ($20). For a real surprise, opt for the crispy leg of duck confit ($24) or the cider-brined, oak-smoked Duroc pork chop ($25).

Does it make sense that the rustic outskirts of Julian boasts better bar food than most of San Diego’s suburban neighborhoods? Maybe not, but it sends a message there are better excuses to eat in these mountains than apple pie, likewise served here.

What makes a little more sense is the smoker that sits outside the pub, doing the good work of slow-cooking meats and vegetables. That includes a (location-appropriate) smoked trout spread ($19), and (unexpected) smokey jus for an organic turkey dip sandwich ($16). I placed my bets on a smoked tri-tip sandwich ($16), featuring prime beef with chimichurri and grilled tomatoes on a soft telera roll. Let’s call it another safe bet that paid off.

The best bet you can make at The Pub at Lake Cuyamaca, given the beer and wine selection, is designating a driver. This becomes obvious when navigating the hairy twists and turns on the way back down the mountain. Otherwise, the place makes for a kick-ass dinner spot, should you want to bundle up and book a cabin, hoping for snow this winter. An hour drive might seem like a long way to go for good food and drink, but it feels like a quick ride if you call it a weekend getaway.