Eastern Dynasty duck answers the call

The table next to us is large and round, with a lazy susan built into its center. As it rotates, we get a clear view of terrific-looking dishes we might have ordered instead: whole steamed fish, BBQ pork belly, fried squid appetizer. Okay, it’s not too late to add the squid ($7.99) to our order, specked with fried garlic. But we’re left to ponder the rest for another day.

Not that we’re disappointed with our entrees in the slightest. In particular, I keep going back to the Cantonese-style roast duck. The half-duck has been chopped into finger-food size pieces, its skin glistening and crispy, and redolent of a five-spice blend.

This new Convoy Street restaurant, Eastern Dynasty, will turn your head that way. It has the sort of menu long enough you almost need a bookmark. It’s loaded with goodies, both owing to the Cantonese cooking traditions the restaurant claims, and other Chinese influences. You could order the lobster and still regret not trying the abalone or the pepper steak.

A couple of years ago, we might have been dining at China Max, just a few feet across the parking lot, instead. But that Kearny mainstay is still being rebuilt following a spring 2020 fire, which left a void someplace like Eastern Dynasty could come along to fill. And judging by the packed dining room and short wait, the restaurant has done a fine job capitalizing on the opportunity.

Southeastern Cantonese is said to rely less heavily on spice than other regional cuisines, but that doesn’t stop Eastern Dynasty from delivering on flavor. If anything can tear me away from the duck, it’s the clay pot casserole of eggplant, diced chicken, and salted fish ($14.95). I first acquired a taste for salted fish at China Max, and it’s just as pungent and surprising here, adding excitement to the depth delivered by perfectly tender, braised eggplant.

It may not be the first option to jump out at you, behind the likes of char siu pork, chow fun, every iteration of fried shrimp, and a second, Peking-style roast duck. But if an item this deep into the menu can impress, you have to figure Eastern Dynasty makes a strong addition, even in this part of town already well-crowded with Chinese restaurants. I will be interesting to see which restaurant in-the-know customers will turn to when China Max makes its return.