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People start getting agro on a 2-foot day
This isn’t Hawaii! There is nothing to fight over!
Local?
“No. I’m from Riverside.”
How long have you been surfing?
2 years.
What motivated you to take up the hobby?
“I moved [to PB] two years ago. My roommate is really into surfing and I started going out with him. It became an everyday thing. I love the ocean and have been a swimmer for a long time. Over the summer it was great because when I got off work, I had about two hours to surf.”
Favorite spot?
“Law Street, for sure, out of convenience. I can walk here. I like Scripps too.”
Favorite Surfing moment?
“This October was great. It got pretty big. It was super exciting. Those were the biggest waves I have surfed so far.”
How many surf boards do you have?
“Three. I have an 8', a 9’6, and a 6'. The 6' I got from my company. They were giving out surfboards in a raffle. One of the guys who won the raffle couldn’t take it home on the airplane. They had it on display. I asked if I could take out and they said sure. I didn’t give it back for a while, and my boss said, ‘You can just keep it!'"
Have you had any surfing injuries?
“About two months ago I split my dome. I was just messing around. It’s always when you’re just messing around that you get hurt. I was getting barreled, and I went down. My board shot up. While I was under water [the board] cracked my head. I just kind of felt like something was not right. I got out of the water and a guy on the beach looked at me and said, ‘Hey man are you alright?’ I felt blood on my forehead. I asked him, “Am I fucked up?’ He said, ‘Dude, you’re gonna need stitches.’ The lifeguards came and bandaged me and cleaned my wounds. The paramedics told me, ‘It looks like you have a hatchet wound!’ I drove myself to the urgent care. I got two staples and stitches. I had to be out of the water for a week and a half. It gave my face a new feature. It looks badass!”
Surfing Pet peeve?
“When people start getting agro at other people on like a 2-foot day. It’s kind of like, there are kids out here; this isn’t Hawaii! There is nothing to fight over!”