Smokin J’s BBQ improves on the TV dinner

People under a certain age might know them as Hungry Man dinners: frozen meals sold in partitioned, microwave-safe trays, in order to keep entrees and side dishes separate as they’re reheated. But, back in the days before microwaves, the trays were made of aluminum, and the meals were marketed as TV dinners. The idea being that, you could simply stick one in the (regular) oven to “cook” while you watched TV, then, when it was ready, eat while you continued to watch TV. Even more convenient: you could eat straight from the tray. No dishes to wash.

The idea anyone would need marketing encouragement to eat in front of the tube might seem quaint to younger generations, digital natives who’ve likely grown up eating in front of two or three screens at once. I suppose we could draw a straight line from those old TV dinners to the home delivery services of today. Like they were the first step in the process of Americans becoming too lazy or enthralled with bingeable content to cook our own meals at home.

So I shouldn’t be too surprised to have found a meshing of the two concepts out in Old Poway Village. I’d finally made it out there to chase down the oak-smoked victuals of Smokin J’s BBQ. Now in its fifth year of business, the highly regarded suburban BBQ joint fits right into the country-styled cluster of old-timey storefronts and parks here at the outer edge of suburban development. Where it’s so often sunny and arid, most of the counter restaurant’s seating was set up outdoors, well ahead of any pandemic. The vibe’s as relaxing as the village is cute — it’s really a great place to hang out and enjoy smoked meats.

However, as with most restaurants everywhere, what the pandemic did bring to Smokin J’s was a more hybrid business. Though outdoor seating is plentiful, the eatery opened up a take-out and delivery window to better facilitate to-go orders, even as on-premise service carries on.

And Smokin J’s came up with its own TV dinner trays. And they’re better than anything you could pull out of your freezer.

Bear in mind, this is a place that makes a signature sandwich loaded with both brisket and hunks of pork belly. Gluttony is usually in order, and to accommodate that it sells the likes of ribs, brisket, and pulled pork by the pound, usually about $25-30 per. I started out ordering a half pound each of the ribs ($16.32), and seriously delectable brisket burnt ends ($16.83).

Add a couple side dishes, and you’ve got a meal for two. Most BBQ joints are set up this way, and it works out great when you’re eating family style. But approach a place like this solo, and I don’t think you can do better than these TV dinners. For between 11 and 17 bucks, you choose a meat and two sides. That could be three bones of the St. Louis-style ribs plus candied yams and coleslaw for $15.50, or two pieces of dark meat chicken with beans and mac n’cheese for $11.50.

I grabbed a third-pound of brisket with the beans and mac for $16.50, and may or may not have watched TV while I scarfed down a fairly complete meal. Those who remember TV dinners may wonder why these don’t include cobbler for dessert. The answer likely has something to do with Smokin J’s scratch baked pecan pie ($4 per slice), a seriously better option.

For that matter, as a kid, I was no stranger to eating turkey and gravy or Salisbury steak dinners out of an aluminum tray. But one needn’t remember those made-for-TV flavors to know expertly smoked BBQ is a significant improvement. Smokin J’s will be best eaten within the confines of Old Poway Village, but if you’re itchin for BBQ from the comfort of your sofa, a true brisket TV dinner will do you no wrong.