I got the nose of my board through my lip

• Name: Sean Dunn
• Age: 24
• From: Clairemont
• Location: Ocean Beach

Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him.

Dunn learned how to surf here as a kid. “My dad would take me down here. I learned how to surf right over there in the jetty.  I remember him pushing me in the waves and dragging me out of rip currents. Dunn laughs, “he used to be a surfer but he’s too chubby now.”

Dunn’s biggest wipeout happened at Blacks. “There have been many wipeouts, but the biggest waves that I’ve fallen off of have been at Blacks Beach. I had one time when I got the nose of my board through my lip; that was super fun. Hospital runs will happen, but not most of the time. I think, in general, surfing is more safe than people think.”

Today Dunn is surfing with a new board. “This is a Tomo Evo and I freakin’ love it. I was really lucky to get it because they are pretty expensive, but my friend was getting rid of all his boards because he was moving and I got it off of him cheap. I have about eight boards. You kinda have to have a quiver of boards if you want to be serious.”

“My best surf experiences have been surfing down in Mexico with my friends… It’s cool to realize that my life has taken me places where I can do things like that. There’s just that moment when you think, ‘Oh shit, I get to do this’— and that’s pretty awesome.”