Perfectly balanced BBQ

Think politics is polarizing? It’s got nothing on BBQ.

It’s a passionate topic where people have their theories on things like wood or propane. sauce or rub, and brisket or ribs.

BBQ aficionados are picky and loyal to a particular spot. By comparison, taco shop lovers are more open-minded, willing to go to different places.

Although I am a fan of Phil’s BBQ, I have to admit my visit to Grand Ole BBQ Y Asado in North Park was revelatory in many ways — especially in relation to how the sauce interacts with the proteins.

The setup at GOBYA looks like a chuck wagon from an old western movie. Lots of picnic tables, open sheds and, smack dab in the middle, a giant wood-fired smoker. You order your meat by weight, but get there early — sellouts are common.

Nothing fancy, but that’s part of the charm.

I like the sauce at Phil’s BBQ though I understand why detractors think it’s too sweet. The sauce at GOBYA is tangy but not as cloying. That’s a good thing: The sauce never overpowers the meat.

That’s amazing considering the turkey ($10 for sandwich/ $19 per pound) has a much lighter, almost delicate, flavor profile compared to the bold spices of the hot links ($9 for sandwich/$14 per pound). But in both cases, the sauce supported the meat perfectly, not overtaking the turkey while standing up to the spicy sausages.

I’m glad I got a variety of meats to try. Although I was fond of the turkey and links, the Tri-Tip was the star ($13 for sandwich/$23 per pound). It was cooked perfectly: crispy on the edges, pink in the middle -- would definitely get that again.

I was a fan of the lamb ($12 for sandwich/$22 per pound. It was tender and delicate — like the turkey — but with a smokier flavor.

GOBYA opens at 12 noon and they were out of the pulled pork by the time I got there around 12:30 on a Saturday. So I got ribs ($19 per pound). They were tender and nicely smoky, but I liked the other meats better.

I liked the side dishes, which sell for $3 each. The Peruvian beans were more like refried beans than the sweet beans often served with BBQ. They were great: A subtle spiciness that matched well with the different meats.

The Texas Bean Salad is noteworthy: Slightly tangy with a nice blast of cumin. I’d consider getting this as a meal if I were feeling vegetarianish. The potato salad and cole slaw are serviceable. No one will be disappointed, but the bean dishes are outstanding.

Grand Ole BBQ Y Asado is one of those casual eateries that make people who live in North Park feel smug. With good reason: The food is good and the cowboy vibe reminds me of Knott’s Berry Farm before it got all fancy with the rides.