Healthy but still “breakfasty”

My wife and I enjoy going to Trust in Hillcrest before going to a play at the Old Globe, and we thought we’d check out the brunch.

Trust has been around a little less than a year and has garnered some mixed reactions at the Reader. Early on Ian Pike griped that the quality of the food didn't justify the prices, but Barbarella Fokos had a much better experience two months later.

My experiences at dinner have been good. I’ve enjoyed the Brussels sprouts, the grilled octopus with pepperoni, and the chicken-liver toast. Plus the patio setting is nice on a warm evening.

I was torn between, one, the baked eggs ($13), which come in a Moroccan sauce with peppers, tomatoes, tzatziki, chickpeas, feta cheese, kale, and grilled bread — it sounded flavorful and healthy but still “breakfasty” — and, two, the smoked pork shoulder hash ($14) served with eggs, Fresno chiles, and black beans.

I decided on the hash. The pork shoulder was tender and sweet and blended well with the eggs, potatoes, and black beans. The chiles meant I didn’t need hot sauce, and the heat went well with the sweetness of the pork. Next time I might try the fried pork cutlet ($13) or the pancakes and fried chicken ($14).

My wife had it easier: The lemon meringue French toast ($13), served with vanilla ricotta, toasted almonds, lemon curd, and graham crackers. “Oh, yeah, I’m getting this,” she said.

Lemon meringue French toast sounds like it could be too sweet, but Trust’s toast was tangy enough to avoid being a sugar bomb. She was torn between wanting me to try a bite because it was so good and not wanting to share because it was so good.

We also got a sticky bun ($7) to go for the kids but made sure to get a few bites in before we packed it to go. It was sweet and sticky, with a hint of apple, and served with house-made ice cream. We ate that before we packed the buns up for the kids.

During recent brunch excursions, I’ve been trying to sample the specialty Bloody Mary at each place I visit. Trust has a full bar and could have made one, but they are focusing on mimosas ($6) in a choice of flavors that change regularly. I am not a fan of mimosas or champagne, but credit goes to the bartender who blended the champagne and juice in a perfect balance between fruit and booze.