Pop-up BBQ pops up downtown

I smelled it first: BBQ. Then, as I crossed 14th Street, a block from the ballpark, I saw the flare of flames bursting up from a gas cooker on the night sidewalk.

It was right outside where I was going: Mission Brewery. Thought I could sneak in a couple of those small sampler glasses of Dark Seas Russian Stout. Only cost one, two bucks. Beautiful rich, black and kinda sweet concoction that I could down nicely while I waited for my stretch limo, the #11, to arrive at 12th and Imperial.

It's a little pop-up canopy.

"Don Ellis BBQ," says the green paper menu on the table that makes up the counter. Guess that's Don flaming up some ribs, just beyond the tent on the side of L street. Ruby McKenzie, his missus, stands under the canvas behind the makeshift counter, taking orders from Mission customers. I see they're carrying their plates inside to eat with their grog.

So hey, fifteen minutes to go. I love this kind of food scene. Check the menu. Everything seems to be $8 or $7. Three pork spare ribs, three pork riblets, or rib tips ("six ounces of slowly smoked pork brisket hand-cut into delicious rib tips") are all $8. Then for $7, four ounces of smoked pulled pork, or five ounces of grilled chicken, or six chicken wings. Or for $5, a hot link.

Don can see I'm twitching, in a hurry.

"We're out of spare ribs," he says, "but why don't you try the rib tips here? Just take me a minute to cook them up."

I nod. He grabs a pile from the little display case. And away go those flames. Through the smoke I see him, stirring, shaking in some scarlet marinade, then picking each riblet up and putting it on a paper plate. "Careful," he says, "they've got bones inside each one."

Don't matter none. Those dozen little chunks of pork flesh are completely gunked up in sauce and spices and are wickedly dee-licious, specially with the Dark Seas, when I get to it. If I had time I'da ordered a full pint of the black stuff.

As it is, it's going to be pot luck finding Don again. Kinda like the Scarlet Pimpernel. You see him here, you see him there... seems to be at the Twisted Manzanita Brewery a lot. Or call him at 619-600-2240 or donellisbbq@gmail.com to find out when he's going to be where.

It'll be worth it.