A taqueria Contodo emerges in Skyline

Had you asked me a few weeks ago, I might have claimed that, over a decade writing Feast stories, I’ve visited every San Diego neighborhood. Every one that’s home to a restaurant, at least. Then last month, I turned left into the Skyline, and Skyline reminded me: This is a big city. Maybe give it another 10 years.

If there’s a particular reason I hadn’t previously been to Skyline, a.k.a. Skyline Hills, it would be that there’s not a lot to eat there. Open up Google Maps, and you’ll find the southeast San Diego community is a mainly residential area, small enough that even Skyline Hills Park and Skyline Hills Library don’t technically fit within its boundaries. But it’s got a terrific neighborhood taco shop, thanks to the recent arrival Contodo Fresh Mexican Eats.

One of the only places to eat in Skyline

The first time, I wound up at Contodo by chance — I happened to be nearby when I got hungry. As it happens, I’ve tried scores of neighborhood taco shops all over the county for the same reason, and rarely do any stand out. But as I drove away from this one, the heat of a punchy creamy chipotle salsa still fading from my tongue, I already knew that Contodo and I had unfinished business.

Priority number one was proving to myself that the vegetarian taco wasn’t a fluke. Historically, veggie tacos aren’t my first choice. But it turns out, if you spend a years writing about the likes of cheeseburgers, fried chicken, and pork belly, your cholesterol’s going to take a hit. So, though I desperately wanted to order the $11 Contodo burrito (carnitas, rice, beans, guacamole, pico de gallo, and corn), instead I opted for a fish tacos and something dubbed the Poblano ($3.50). It’s a rajas taco, featuring sauteed onions and corn, along with strips of grilled poblano peppers.

A rajas taco, featuring poblano peppers, onions, and corn

These ingredients along may have made it pleasant eating, but considering the name of this place means “with everything,” the taco’s appropriately dressed up with additions of crema, cotija, and a crispy layer of cheddar that’s been melted onto the tortilla as it grilled upon the flat top. A second poblano taco cinched it: not a fluke. Simply an excellent vegetarian choice.

Unfinished business number two: the pork belly taco ($4.25). Yes, I initially made the “healthy” choice to avoid this option, but then I spent the next two weeks regretting it. It’s not every day you get a chance to eat a thick strip of pork belly nestled within a fresh, handmade tortilla. This sumptuous morsel takes after cochinita pibil, topped with pickled red onions to go with cotija and guacamole. I have zero regrets. For one thing, closer to downtown, a taco this succulent probably wouldn’t sell for under 6 bucks.

A cochinita pibil styled taco, featuring pork belly

And it might not have the same quality of thick, chewy, hecho a mano  tortillas, either. Though the above tacos proved most memorable, everything I’ve ordered eats well folded inside those tortillas, whether fish, chicken, carne asada, or another standout, adobada. If you demand quality tortillas and salsas, Contodo is a taco shop for you.

An employee told me that one of the founders of Contodo had previously operated the tiny, taco counter Mimi’s Tacos, which had earned a loyal following in Pacific Beach until it closed due to the pandemic. And Contodo’s little more than a taco counter itself. Though it occupies a standalone building, the kitchen takes most of the space, so there’s only seating at a couple of outside picnic tables. For sure, Mimi’s had a higher profile location, but also for sure: Contodo’s the best thing going in Skyline.

I’ll stop short of suggesting taco enthusiasts from all over the county should rush to pay a visit, but certainly anyone who lives close enough to already know where this neighborhood is, will want to give it a try. Especially on Tuesdays, when tacos go three for $8.