Sultan Baklava brings its kebob back to El Cajon

It’s no secret that our region’s best Mediterranean and Middle Eastern food is most often found in El Cajon. Though, for a while, some of it was found in the Gaslamp.

For a few years, Turkish chef Sultan Usta operated Sultan Kebab & Baklava out on Jamacha Road. But then, about ten years ago he moved on, reappearing a short while later downtown with Sultan Baklava Mediterranean Cuisine. So it was that, until the pandemic came along, the Gaslamp could righteously boast killer baklava and döner kebab.

But by the end of 2021, Usta’s desserts returned to El Cajon with the opening of Sultan Baklava, on Main Street. Along with myriad baklava and Turkish delights — priced by the pound — that lavishly decorated shop serves the likes of Turkish coffee and pistachio lattes made from beans roasted on site.

And now, in the space next door, Usta’s kebabs and other grilled meat specialties have returned to El Cajon too. It may only a subtle distinction at this point, but this newer restaurant goes by the name Sultan Mediterranean Grill.

Now, Sultan’s baklava bakery and coffee shop makes an instant impression with vivid red upholstery, ornate floor tiles, and a large crystal chandelier. So I’ll admit to being a little disappointed to find a much more subdued counter shop set up to serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner next door.

Then, I suppose the tastefully casual interior portends good taste on the plate. The day begins with so-called Turkish breakfasts, presented on sectional, round platters loaded with treats.

These feature eggs and sausage, and a veritable meze platter, though most intriguing is the breakfast of olives, clotted cream and honey, plus a smattering of walnuts with dried fruits such as dates, figs, and apricots ($20).

Moving on to lunch, you can get a standard plate of those meze (dolma, hummus, and baba ghanoush plus basmati rice) for $15, everything dusted with sumac and served with a fluffy, fresh flatbread.

This will go with everything on the grill menu, which begins with döner ($17) and runs through a litany of meat, poultry, and salmon kebabs ranging from $18 to $25. There are almost too much to choose from, though I can vouch for the grilled lamb at least. This was served with super thin flatbread — effectively a grilled flour tortilla coated with a blend of spices.

The prices run a bit higher than we might expect for Mediterranean food or downtown El Cajon. It might be inflation, or it might be that what’s on the plate here tastes a bit better than the fast casual Mediterranean eateries that continue to pop up all around El Cajon and elsewhere. At the least, I expect Gaslamp visitors would be happy to spend $25 on terrific Mediterranean food right about now. Now again, as it was before, they’ll have to drive to El Cajon for it.