"I am grumpy before I get in the water and less so when I get out…. usually."

Local?

No, I’m from Iowa. I moved here about 3 years ago for the ocean.

Had you ever surfed before prior moving to San Diego?

I spent one winter here before moving learning how to surf. I had a seasonal business back in the Midwest, so I had winters off.

Was it tough learning?

I was probably terrible, but it was really fun. I lived in a complex with a couple of other surfers that were really nice, and they would take me out and show me stuff.

What was the hardest surf skill to learn?

Knowing what time of day to go out. Sometimes, I would be all amped up to go, and my friends would be like, “Bro, we gotta wait.” I learned that it matters what the tide and wind are doing.

Favorite surf spot?

Here (OB Jetty) if I want a beach break, or Sunset Cliffs if I want a cliff break.

Have you had any surf injuries?

In January, I pulled something in my pec. I had to swim in a swimming pool for several weeks while it healed up.

Is surfing your therapy?

For sure. I am grumpy before I get in the water, and less so when I get out… usually.

Are there any beaches here in San Diego you don’t feel ready to surf yet?

Blacks on a big day. I just chill on the beach on those days.

Do you ever have to deal with aggressive surfers?

No, not really. I feel like people are pretty chill. I know aggressive surfers exist; I just haven’t seen it. A few days ago, I was at the cliffs, and some dudes were talking about surfing a different spot and getting chased out of the water. I thought to myself, “Are they talking about me? Am I doing something wrong?”

What do you love the most about surfing?

All the life lessons and the parallels to living a good life. The other day, I was at the cliffs and started to become more aware of wave selection. If you go for a crap wave and it’s not very fun, you have to paddle back out. There is some wisdom in knowing to take something, or to just wait. But there is a chance that the crap wave you passed on was the last wave of the day. Maybe after that, the ocean just peters out and you think, “I should’ve just caught that wave!”