“I am like, ‘Let’s get in there and do it!’”

Local?

No I am originally from Bakersfield. I am a pipe fitter, so I travel around a lot for work. I’ve been in Ocean Beach for the last 6 months.

When did you start surfing?

I started surfing when I was 12, not consistently though. My dad doesn’t surf. My uncle and my cousins do. I would hang out with them and surf a lot. My uncle and my cousin Conor would push me into the whitewash. That’s how I learned.

What’s your favorite surf spot?

I usually surf dog beach. This weekend I am surfing Pipes and Blacks. I am trying to venture out a little!

How often do you surf?

Probably about twice a month but lately it’s been more like twice a week.

Do you have a favorite surfing moment?

I was surfing with my uncle when I was like 14 and I took my first wave over 6 feet. It was huge! It was right next to the pier in Pismo Beach. I got on it and everything was going good and then the wave just swallowed me. I was freaking out. I couldn’t get out of the water. My uncle is like this big 6’4” blond guy. He came over and just pulled me up out of the water and I was like, “You saved my life!”

Any surf injuries?

I split my forehead open on my fin. My neighbor was a nurse, so she cleaned it all up and bandaged me. I wore this big sock beanie on my head for a week until it started to clear up.

Do you ever have to deal with aggressive surfers?

I mean, yeah, I wouldn’t say I have the best surf etiquette. I am like. ‘Yeah, let’s get in there and do it!’ and other people are sometimes like, “Bro, you need to chill the fuck out!”

What do you love the most about surfing?

What I love is that it’s like being in a different world. You’re not on the beach anymore. You are out there with all these other people just chilling. You aren’t talking but we are all connected in a way to each other and the water.

If you could surf anywhere, where would you surf?

Hawaii, Nazaré and Australia. I want to be a big wave surfer one day.