“A guy’s board hit him in the eye and his eye fell out”

Location: Pillbox, Solana Beach

Occupation: Writer

Favorite surf spot: Cardiff

Craziest surfing experience: “One time while I was surfing at reef in La Jolla, I saw a guy’s board hit him in the eye and his eye fell out. There was no lifeguard, so we helped him paddle in and his friend took him to the ER. I don’t know the guy so I don’t know what ended up happening. I was okay afterward, I still surfed. I mean surfing incidences are pretty rare I would say, especially in San Diego.

Do you run into many territorial surfers out here? “No. I think it used to be more territorial. More and more people are surfing which makes it less possible to be territorial.”

Any Advice to new surfers? “Be respectful, google basic etiquette, surf spots that aren’t crowded so that you can get waves and actually learn and get better.”

Do you have a favorite surfing moment: Not really a favorite moment, I would say, just getting out there. I don’t surf every day, but I try to get out as much as possible.