Slammed down by the bullring

At about sunset, I spotted AF at the end of Date Avenue in IB loading his 7’8″ Electric Duck surfboard into his van. “It’s shaped by Mike Richardson,” he said. “That board works real good with big and small waves — today was about 2-3 foot.”

His gnarliest wipeout took him out of the water for five months. “It was about seven years ago bro, [when] we were at the sloughs at the end of the seacoast, by the bullring [Playas de Tijuana]. Before the river, there’s an outer reef out there.

"The power and the pressure and the force of the wave dragged me all the way down to the bottom and out there it’s deep; we are talking like probably 25 feet.”

His slammed hip survived, but the whole tail of his board broke.