Munched it at San Onofre

Name: Rick Dyer

From: Fallbrook

Location: Imperial Beach Pier

On May 20th, I saw Rick Dyer and his wife Lynne hanging out by their 1972 Volkswagen Combi van on Seacoast Drive.

“The surf out at the pier was decent in the morning,” Dyer said, “it was a little bit stormy with 3-4 footers.”

Dyer’s got a collection of eight surfboards, but today he brought his 10’2″ longboard made by Dean Cleary Surfboards.

“I’ve had it for about 20 years, he said. “It’s good for small days and a nice little nose rider.”

His funnest ride on the board was at Ventura. “It was a nice long right that went for 200 yards and was 6-8 foot all the way through.”

Dyer and his wife, Lynne, camp inside their VW at San Onofre, 27 miles north of Oceanside. He’s been surfing there at the Point since the 1970s.

In the early millennium, he munched it at San Onofre pretty bad.

“I kicked out of a wave and I put my hands back on the board,” he said, “then my hands slipped off the side of the board and I clipped my chin and this tooth right here [in the front] split top to bottom. Afterwards, they (the dentist) epoxied it back together.”

Dyer picked up surfing in Hawaii with his dad, who worked in the productions of Hawaii Five-O and Magnum PI.

“We surfed 5-6 days a week and I learned to respect the water a lot more,” he said, “you can’t fall because of the coral down below.”