If you're a beginner, stay in Tourmaline

Name: Jules Nacario

Age: 57

From: Mission Beach

Location: South Mission Beach, Jetty

Jules Nacario was walking up to the showers after a long surf session.

“This is a pretty modern surf craft. It’s Tomo, Daniel Thompson shape, a Stu Kennedy model, very modern bottom. It’s fast, responsive, good for an old guy like me,” Nacario laughs.

Nacario’s worst injury happened in 2005. “The tip of my surfboard landed into my eye socket and I almost lost my eye. I had three surgeries done. That was out here in Mission.”

His wipeout hasn’t stopped the 57-year-old from surfing almost every day.

“The Jetty is one of the best lefts in California. There’s a group of guys that have been surfing out here for 30-plus years. We really protect our spot. There’s a pecking order out there, for sure. We don’t really like people coming out there who just don’t know the spot and think they are entitled to catch waves. If you’re a beginner, stay in beaches that are more for beginners, like Tourmaline. The locals here can get pretty mean.”