Breakfast dessert at Nutmeg Bakery

Coffee, croissant, and dulce de leche

Crispy reheated ham and Gruyère croissant
Place

Nutmeg Bakery & Café

12640 Sabre Springs Parkway, San Diego

I had one of those mid-morning hungers — too early for lunch but too close on the heels of breakfast to do that all over again. I was driving through Sabre Springs with a half-full cup of coffee from nearby roaster Mostra, and I had no idea where I might find the right amount of food that would pair well with that gourmet Sumatra.

That’s where the word “bakery” came into play. Nutmeg Bakery & Café sits deep within a shopping center strip, separated from the road by a wide parking lot. Fortunately for my belly, they popped up a fabric sign at that parking lot entrance to attract peckish, wandering souls like yours truly.

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The pleasant shopping center patio at Nutmeg

Not that the place wasn’t busy enough, particularly the small, umbrella-shaded patio. The organic-leaning bakery serves egg-dish breakfasts and Panini-style lunches, but at 11 a.m. a number of small groups chatted over pastries and coffee drinks as though this were a regular meeting spot for catch-up sessions.

The line to order takes you past some of those pastries, which line up behind a high glass counter with assorted cookies and cakes. I quickly spotted a ham-and-Gruyère croissant. But there also was a dulce de leche bread pudding, looking sweet and inviting, crying out for some whipped cream and a complex coffee accompaniment.

I ordered both at about $4 each, with the croissant heated up, and was given a numbered table sign to carry to my place. Actually, it was a numbered metal pail that carried napkins and silverware, a clever touch. The croissant showed up first, and I enjoyed the warm melt of the Gruyère inside and pan-crispy cheese that had melted on the ends of the pastry wrap.

The coffee drinker’s dessert: dulce de leche bread pudding

The bread pudding had been lost in the shuffle, but staff patrols the dining room to clear tables and check on guests so I had no problem flagging someone down. The pudding arrived with a fresh dose of cream just as I finished the croissant. Each bite offered a different ratio of dense and milky versus fluffy and sweet.

And that coffee! Satisfied, I got back on the road, working my way east into Poway where I started to think about where I might find a light lunch.

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