Birria in the Bear's Corner

Tijuana has gotten a bad rap over the years, thanks largely to a U.S.-fueled drug war and the ensuing onslaught of sensationalist journalism that often fails to recognize America’s ravenous appetite as culprit number one in the booming narcotic economy.

But, if sacred cow makes the best hamburger, then scapegoat makes the best birria, and Tijuana has no shortage of this adobo-stewed chivo meat, which originated in Jalisco.

A common dish at celebratory gatherings and pure magic for the hangovers that inevitably follow, birria is usually made from goat or mutton, but it’s not uncommon to find street carts selling beef and even chicken in its place.

El Rincon del Oso is a brick-and-mortar birrieria located inside the bustling Mercado Hidalgo in Zona Rio. A popular break spot between produce and cheese vendors, El Rincon del Oso is almost always full.

The featured dish is the “orden de birria,” a modest bowl of stew served with tortillas. At 115 pesos ($7.75), the dish already costs about twice the price of street vendors and, unfortunately, doesn’t come close to what one finds at carts by Parque Teniente Guerrero or 4th and Niños Héroes. Even with a generous splash of lime, diced onion, and cilantro, the goat and broth come off as one-dimensional.

To remedy this, the gordita con carne (45 pesos or $3) places the meat in between two oversized masa tortillas and stuffs the thing with cheese. Here, the tender birria becomes one with dairy and greasy masa, all of which takes a fantastic herbal undertone from dishes of oregano on the table. It’s a truly glorious mess to handle.

All things considered, El Rincon del Oso isn’t the strongest player in Tijuana’s birria game, but the warm family environment and its placement amid the market make for a worthwhile meal for two that will still cost less than a couple of combos at McDonald’s.