Solo Surfer

Yiga, who has surfed since he was eight, braves the crowds for a Saturday-morning session. Having been in the water bodysurfing and swimming his whole life, he has seen his share of hassles. Today is no exception.

“The beaches are always going to be crowded in the summer. The seasonal surfers come out — people who just surf during warm weather, guys that are gonna get a 6’8” and try to be Kelly Slater.”

Yiga approaches the packed parking lots and full breaks calmly.

“You just have to surf around [excess people]. It’s not this crowded in the winter, and the conditions are better.”

He approaches surfing with a serious attitude and prefers solitude to social interaction.

“Half my friends surf, but surfing is a solo thing for me, for my own self. Like, how people say it’s a ‘church’? It’s good for my body, good for my soul. If friends wanna go surf when I’m going out, I’m all for it, but I don’t call anyone up to arrange it.”