Teacher Brah

“On a big day, I get crushed by waves,” admits Dusty Engel, a relatively new surfer. “I was not a strong swimmer before I took up surfing. I’m still really not, and I think it affects my performance.”

His worst day of surfing was two years ago at Bird Rock, where large waves wiped him out. (“I was crushed, sucked down, and barely came out with any breath.”)

Since then, Dusty has stuck with smaller waves on his longboard, surfing for the pleasure of being able to ride. He hates fighting for a wave and the politics of localized surfing.

“I’m a lover, not a fighter. I’ve seen some crazy fights out there, and I know my place. A lot of these guys have been doing this way longer than me, and I respect that. I love surfing in O.B. because I know I won’t get beat up if I’m on someone else’s wave. I can just do my thing and not have to deal with attitude and drama.”

As a high school teacher, Dusty encourages his students to try new things. “They think it’s cool that their math teacher is a surfer. A few of my students surf, and we exchange tips and information. It’s a great way to connect with them on things besides academics.”