Best of 2003: Best New Fish House

Third Corner
2265 Bacon Street, Ocean Beach
619-223-2700

Mediterranean-style seafood is the specialty at Ed Moore's latest outpost, across the street from his Thee Bungalow. Chef Juan Flores is turning out some wonders here. A seafood "chartreuse" appetizer (tender shellfish in a thin cabbage wrap, bathed in creamy sauce nantua) is a great starter, as is a mushroom strudel. And then there are the infinitely satisfying entrées, including Great Lakes whitefish and potato-crusted salmon with sorrel. The wine list is perfectly matched to the cooking, with plenty of excellent and reasonably priced bottlings. The atmosphere is "neighborhood" and prices are reasonable for the quality.