Eleanor Widmer 8:30 a.m., March 23
Chef Shake-Up at Brooklyn Girl
As reported in my review of Brooklyn Girl (4033 Goldfinch Street), the three-months-young darling of Mission Hills, has been quite the success story, entertaining packed houses most nights. However, into every restaurant’s world, a little rain must fall. Former executive chef Tyler Thrasher resigned from his post today.
Clearly, conceptualizing dishes was not the problem for Thrasher. The menu he developed for Brooklyn Girl is stocked with tasty fare that has been well received by diners. Most days, the dining room is filled with as many regulars as newcomers. That doesn’t happen if the food isn’t good. In making his decision to move on, Thrasher decided to pursue a more straightforward position more focused on cooking than leading, admitting some of the managerial duties associated with his position were a bit outside his wheelhouse.
This development opens the door for sous chef Colin Murray to step into the executive chef role. Effective immediately, he will be calling the shots, developing dishes, and managing day-to-day kitchen operations. This will be nothing new for the classically-trained chef. Even while Thrasher was in charge, Murray ran the kitchen on a nightly basis and handled various management responsibilities. The big change for him will be having the opportunity to display his skills and style of cuisine.
Before coming to Brooklyn Girl, Murray was the sous chef at Cowboy Star in the East Village. He has also held similar positions at various other restaurants in San Diego. This will be his first gig as the head honcho, but given how much he shouldered over the young life of the bustling eatery and the fact there will be no reconcepting (the restaurant will remain a casual spot for eclectic farm-to-table cuisins), it would figure Brooklyn Girl will experience less turbulence than other spots where there is less exec and sous overlap might.