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Kaito Sushi
Kaito is the new standard bearer for the best in sushi. Their sushi program is the most uncompromising that I've seen anywhere, led by head chef Kazuo Morita. Growing-up in a fishing village near Tokyo with rigorous training under 2 masters since his youth, Morita-san is most qualified to bring Tokyo-style sushi to lucky diners in North County. However the quality of the offerings should put Kaito in the class of destination restaurants, and customers have been coming in from all over Southern California and beyond to have his sushi. One of their signature offerings is fresh Anago, or saltwater eel, filleted in house every other day. Most Anago is pre-filleted in Japan, nearly a market requirement given the rare skill that is required to properly fillet an eel. This is daubed with their house-made Kabayaki sauce, a complex syrup slowly reduced over days with bits of eel. And finally the nigiri is formed using a special technique, resulting in a ball of rice that is as soft and delicate as the Anago itself - so much so that it requires being eaten by one's bare hands. When you dine at Kaito the adulterated veil of frozen tane served elsewhere is lifted, leaving only the clean, pure tastes of what was really practiced in old Tokyo (Edo). Items you thought were familiar are tasted anew, a whole new light is cast upon the sushi experience, and suddenly one realizes the true seasonality and promise of this wonderful cuisine. All traditional sushi fans owe it to themselves to make their own personal "sushi pilgrimage" to Kaito Sushi.— October 11, 2008 11:38 a.m.