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Stories by Ed Bedford

Feast and Fareway: public golf course with sliders

“This is our sport,” says Annie, “and don’t you Sassenachs forget it.” Did I mention? My friend Annie is Scottish. “Sassenachs” (“Saxons”) basically means anyone who’s not Scottish. We’re standing at the entrance to the …

May 27, 2021
F-HOP, not IHOP

I am sitting, staring like a stunned ox. “I told you it was real,” says Sully. My buddy and I are sitting here, under tents, a stone’s throw from the 805, on Plaza Boulevard in …

May 20, 2021
Trattoria Etrusco: like eating a cloud

“Never start a restaurant on the moon,” says my friend John. “Why’s that?” “It’ll have no atmosphere, dude.” Man. Should have seen that coming. He’s just declined to take the trolley with me south to …

May 13, 2021
Smokey’s Lake Wohlford Cafe: old-school country diner

Sparkling waters! Blue, rippling, and fresh. You come across them suddenly, on this twisty road in the mountains, heading towards Valley View Casino. It’s Lake Wohlford. First time I’ve ever seen it. Two minutes later, …

May 6, 2021
Grasshoppers, and the elixir of the gods

“Listen, kid, people have been flinging their fangs around these little guys for generations. I think we can handle them once and live to tell the tale.” “I’m not touching them. Forget it.” ‘They’re salty. …

April 29, 2021
Barrio bourbon at Liberty Call Distilling Co.

Cheery-looking chap’s taking a sip of beer. We’re in the Barrio, up from Northgate Market, in this little restaurant row beside Cesar E. Chavez Parkway. Sign says “Liberty Call,” and shows off big anchors and …

April 22, 2021
When burrito met Philly at El Pollo Grill

“Believe me!” says my new friend Timothy. “It’s like ‘When burrito met Philly.’ It’s just meat, Philly cheesesteak carne asada, onions, bell peppers, and Monterey Jack cheese, melted. But that’s all you need! Slices of …

April 15, 2021
Pork belly evolution

“The whole ramen thing again?” says my friend Annie. We’re on the phone. “No. This is like the original, and IMHO the best,” I say. “Come on down! Sun’s got two fists to go!” Up …

April 8, 2021
Pump House Gang hang

Tom Wolfe! Too freakin’ much! Here? And the pump house gang? Where the heck are they? Tom, John, Nealy, Artie, Pam, Liz, Vicki, Jacki Haddad, Kit, and hey, Jack MacPherson, the crazy instigator of the …

April 1, 2021
Get Friendly with an OG Dirty Flat Top

It’s that super-chilly Monday last week. The sun has just set and temps have dropped with a clang. Knife-edge breeze. At the corner of Upas and 30th, I’m standing trying to decide where to chow …

March 25, 2021
Sr. Taquito: Molcajete heat on a cold night

Maggie’s regretting ever opening her mouth. She stands back from where this guy is throwing his into the mic. “You and I are just two leaves in the wind,” he croons. The crowd at his …

March 18, 2021
The barrio’s hopping at Side Yard BBQ

“Welcome to Caballero’s Homey Jammmm!” scribbles this gal on a piece of paper. Music’s too loud for talking. We’re sitting right in front of this group of jamming Latin jazz players, playing live to maybe …

March 11, 2021
A breakfast to remember at Golden Hill Cafe

“I’ve just signed a lease for another 10 years,” says Carmen. “I’m 71. We’re in the middle of a pandemic. People say I’m crazy.” This is 8:30 in the morning, in the Golden Hill Cafe, …

March 4, 2021
Sophia Cucina: Colors. Aromas. Flavors

She looks down on you as you come in. Sophia. Sophia Loren, that is. Her portrait is on the wall here, lit up like a Mona Lisa. We’re in a very cool-looking building with a …

February 25, 2021
Flavors of East Africa at the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market

Teagan (“Think ‘Reagan’” she says) saws away at her violin right by the entrance. She’s playing Arianna Grande’s “34+35.” Sounds really cool. Actually, this whole scene is hard to beat. Saturday morning, sunshine, cool breeze …

February 18, 2021
Song Hak Korean BBQ: intestinal fortitude

I have this noodle idea in my noodle. Korean noodles. I was up here on Convoy looking for the kind of “glass noodles” that my friend Clive, who was stationed in Korea, says are i) …

February 11, 2021
Paris Bakery: Don’t forget Tet

Just been hearing about the baguettes of the Paris Bakery. (“Golden Dreams” 1/7/21) And when I coupled that with Reader reader Wink Sajack hauling me over the coals about the cost of some of the …

February 4, 2021
Japanese curry?

“Konnichiwa!” I love how all the crew in some Japanese eateries stop everything when customers arrive or leave and shout out “Konnichiwa!” Kind of “Hello!” “Good bye!” “Thank you!” “Good day!” I don’t know about …

January 28, 2021
Tortilla soup for the soul

I used to have a conscience about this: eating at a place that I knew was kind of working the system. I felt, ‘What about all the others who are staying closed down, playing by …

January 21, 2021
The Local poutine routine

“It’s pandemic Armageddon, downtown,” says Jess. She’s the general manager here. She’s just brought out my poutine. “We’re hanging on by our fingernails.” Armageddon? She’s talking about the number of homeless people who come by, …

January 7, 2021
Tin Fish: oysters and champagne

“I’ve got a hundred bucks that says we celebrate!” I say. “Uh huh,” says Annie. “Now, on this braw, bricht, moonlicht nicht?” It’s like five o’clock. Dark already. We’re just starting out along the Imperial …

December 31, 2020
Miss Kim’s delicious dilemmas

David hunches over the ocean, elbows on rail, playing his harmonica. He holds long notes. “See? They like it,” he says. “See? See?” And wow. I’m looking below, and two dolphin fins come knifing through …

December 24, 2020
Pizza Bella: best pizza in America

Happy Fonso bongos away to a recorded song coming out of his car. “Working for tips,” his cardboard signs says. “Your help is needed and appreciated. Thanks!” Except, since the lockdown, Old Town is pretty-much …

December 17, 2020
Burgers Bait and Beer: Eat the Kraken!

“Let’s go fishing! I’m at the South Embarcadero. You can rent poles for $5 and buy bait and eat hot dogs and watch Huey sink into the West, all at the same time!” “Where are …

December 10, 2020
Find the two great “kings” at Ye Olde Plank

“Hey,” says Kim. “How come they can serve meals inside here? They grandfathered in?” “Make that ‘great-grandfathered,’” I say. I happen to know. This place has been in business since 1886, not that I was …

December 3, 2020
Prickles of pepper at Gaslamp Breakfast Company

Gaslamp Quarter. People wary. Streets empty. Seagulls fighting over scraps. One place crowded: breakfast joint on 6th and J. It’s blossoming in sky-blue umbrellas and rosy pink chairs. And busy! Really surprising at this time, …

November 26, 2020
Ichiban: glowing with a cozy openness

Coming out of the DMV (trying to get a “Real ID”), Normal Street. Heading for University. Need nosh. But where to? Okay, I already know. Specially now, four in the afternoon, happy hour at my …

November 19, 2020
The Parakeet Cafe lands in Coronado

It’s green, with golden wounds spilling poached yolks down over roasted, herbed tomato halves and onto a huge side of toasted sourdough bread. You think Croque Madame. I have to ask. “What is this again?” …

November 12, 2020
Tijuana country club kidnapping, shootout near school, nostalgia for Jai Alai, casino, racetrack

Don't look now Abduction and murder at T.J.’s Camp Campestre Under normal circumstances, it would be difficult not to stare at ten men dressed in black who brandished submachine guns. Under normal circumstances, ten men …

November 9, 2020
Steele 94: Friday fry-day

‘When God’s not in heaven, He’s in Jamul,” says Dr. Don. “I know it. I feel it.” This is my 84-year-old bar neighbor, out here on the Campo Road. Just met him. I’ve happened in …

November 5, 2020
Quartyard’s glowing

So last week, down in TJ, this cool courtyard, Telefonica Gastro Park, instantly reminded me of our very own Quartyard, that deliberately temporary spot for getting together with a few drinks, a few dogs (they …

October 29, 2020
Beating back fear of Tijuana, why I keep thinking about Mexico, a cross-border kidnapping

Baja is back Hip and delicious. There’s no reason not to get in your car and go. By Elizabeth Salaam, July 24, 2013 | Read full article I was hit with the realization that half …

October 25, 2020
Tasty trip to Tijuana

"Cenosilicaphobia! I’m suffering from Cenosilicaphobia!” I say. “Do something!” Scottish Annie ignores me. She’s scanning Agua Caliente Boulevard like Columbus searching for India. “Ceno...? Och. I canna see a single food truck.” Hmm. Finally I …

October 22, 2020
San Diego Reader's Best Of issue

Look for the online list of Best Of voting winners soon. We have printed and re-stocked extra copies of this week's print version where the Best Of voting winners are listed. Best place in San …

October 21, 2020
Las Cuatro Milpas: four bucks in the barrio

“Sobador,” says the hand-painted sign beside me. It gives a phone number. This is on Logan Avenue. I’m standing in the line, as you always do here. Yes, even in these tough times, Las Cuatro …

October 15, 2020
Native fruits, Bread and Cie, taco extremist, pho forager, Baja cuisine

Between Slurps Hmm…menu has things like “amuse-bouches,” “tartines,” and “baguettes.” Where do I start? The tartines (“open-face toasted sandwiches with melted cheese”)? For eight bucks you get “two of your choice, served on arugula salad.” …

October 5, 2020
Cody’s La Jolla: breakfast with Hunter S. Thompson

“Man, this is chilly,” says my friend Alison. “You guys in Fall already?” It’s gotta be 75 degrees out. But she’s from Arizona. We’re looking for a breakfast place, here in La Jolla. “Let’s go …

October 1, 2020
The Golf Bar: Bratwurst and ball whacking

“What does that mean?” I mumble to myself. I’d noticed it when I came out from Ma’s Place, the Muslim Chinese eatery (see last week’s column). This sign across the parking lot: The Golf Bar. …

September 24, 2020
Ma’s House Chinese Halal: genuine Uyghur food

“OK. What else?” “OK. What else?” “OK. What else?” The gal’s taking a food order at max speed over the phone. She reads all the items back. “OK. Xié xié (thank you)!” She clacks her …

September 17, 2020
Sunny and money on the Hotel Del’s Sun Deck

I’m crazily tempted. Me, eating at the Del? Idea has “disaster” written all over it. Except they’ve just opened their completely revamped sun deck. Plus I have two beautiful women with me, expecting me to …

September 10, 2020
Masala Cottage: The Samosa King

“Dinna fasch yersel,” says Annie (translation: don’t get upset), “but this curry was created in the UK, not India. Scots and Sassanaks (tr: English people) eat more of this than they do fish and chips!” …

September 3, 2020
Hopster Pot and the Three-Way: a match made in New England heaven

It’s that meat slicer. Whirring away. If it hadn’t been for the thin waves of blushing beef it was peeling off, I would have manfully resisted the temptation. Instead, here I am, inside Thorn’s awesome …

August 27, 2020
Empanada Kitchen vs. Silvias Pupuseria: Argentina vs. El Salvador

Argentina? El Salvador? Empanadas? Pupusas? What’s the difference? I’m wandering, wandering, and wondering as I wander. I’ve just come down from City College. Had this crazy notion that their cafeteria might be open. What I …

National City – still up and coming

National City – a Mayor Daley-type political machine To the south of San Diego, within range of the shadows cast by the Coronado Bridge, lies National City. Frequently described as the “backlot" of San Diego, …

The Brigantine and The Embarcadero: A tale of two happy hours

We arrive at six bells. They’re ringing out aboard the Star of India. Love it! (We’re talking 3 pm, landlubber’s time.) Pursuant to our campaign to find places with a ton of fresh air blowing …

August 13, 2020
The glamour and crime of Tijuana

Don't look now Under normal circumstances, it would be difficult not to stare at ten men dressed in black who brandished submachine guns. Under normal circumstances, ten men dressed in black who brandished submachine guns …

August 8, 2020
Tacos Lily: good enough for Anthony Bourdain!

Wow! I had forgotten this scene. You wind up in Baja on the southbound road through the mountains, until you swing a left and Blatt! The Pacific! A rippling blue carpet way below. It’s quite …

August 6, 2020
Bay Books Cafe: cook the books

Guess what? Bright orange umbrellas on Orange Avenue. They light up the blue sky near Tenth in Coronado. The gods must’ve been speaking to me this morning. It so happens the scarf I wrapped around …

July 30, 2020
Stout Public House: Hockey, Guinness, and “Smiddicks”

Why do I always get these cool vibes here? I mean, it’s an area that can be a little scrubby, around 6th and B downtown. Lots of people hanging around the 5th Avenue trolley, specially …

OB’s Walking On Water Cafe: Sinkers and seagulls

Fresh air! That’s the answer to catching coronavirus (if you believe those 240 scientists who claimed it can be transmitted through the air). And there’s no fresher air than here, half a mile out on …

July 16, 2020

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