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Stories by Ed Bedford

Vegetarian variety at Chennai Tiffins

“Imagine Christmas,” says Trivikram, “but in India. That tells you what Diwali is like.” Trivikram (I have to ask what his name means. It means “Triple Victory”) and his buddies (Anupam, Sahana, Sindhu, Nikhil) all …

November 5, 2021
Ichiban and HiroNori Craft Ramen: Japanese joints juxtaposed

“Let’s go Japanese,” says Chris. “You mean chopsticks?” asks Erik. “Not really my thing.” There are four of us standing around here, dithering by the DMV in Uptown. It’s 4:30 pm. Chris calls his buddy …

October 28, 2021
Daily News Cafe: looks like a breakfast-all-day

“Dang!” says Kevin. “I’ve just spent $4000 on a filter system that produces alkaline water. I lived here in Carlsbad for three years, and never knew these guys were here.” He’s talking about this building …

October 21, 2021
Chi Chi’s Mexican Cantina: new name in Old Town

I think I’m in love. Again. With tacos. I’ve been tramping the streets of Old Town. I can see it’s trying hard to get back on its partying feet. And yes, places like Cafe Coyote …

October 14, 2021
Sand Castle Cafe: where the Sweetwater river actually looks sweet and clean and countrified

The green islands break up the windblown sheets of water. It looks like an archipelago seen from a plane. But we’re only on a bridge, 15 feet above the Sweetwater River. That’s just the start …

October 7, 2021
Lahaina Beach House: easy living under the hard sun

It’s heading towards nine in the am. People stand around impatiently, shoulders hunched, hands in pockets, looking up the steps to the deck like they’re waiting for the return of David Bowie. They’re about that …

September 30, 2021
Paella Toñico: past and present

I jump out of the cab. Cab burps off. What am I seeing? Oh yes. The red and blue Washmobile car wash. And the little slot in their building that accomodates Tortas Washmobile Originales. Been …

September 23, 2021
Jimmy’s Santee Stroganoff

I had to travel 20 miles outta town to get my Stroganoff fix. I’m sure some downtown places have it, but it’s only here in Santee that my Stroganoff urge meets its match. We’re talking …

September 16, 2021
Bonchon: the other KFC

You know it’s corporate from the come-ons they have on the wall. “Handcrafted taste and flavor.” “Amazing experiences make for unforgettable moments.” “Every handcrafted piece of Bonchon chicken starts your experience.” I get it. Terms …

September 9, 2021
Coconut Girl Kitchen: Malaysian surf food

“Malaysian?” asks Kevin. We’re standing outside this little storefront place. It’s like so many others here on Mission Boulevard: small, quirky businesses, many from the ’50s, most of them appealing to the surf culture. Except …

September 2, 2021
Hash House A Go Go: waffle tower rolled in Andy’s Secret Spices

My two friends Erik and Chris said I had to do this. “It’s not that cheap, but you get so much, you have two meals for the price of one, guaranteed,” said Chris. He was …

August 26, 2021
What Oscar Wilde and The Lion’s Share have in common: absinthe

The blue flame dances in and out of focus. The Green Fairy sparkles in front of my eyes. I can feel her hypnotizing me. I’m seeing seven veils, I’m thinking “Scheherazade,” “Salome.” My eyelids are …

August 19, 2021
Fleshy follies at the Bullpen

‘OORAH!” This is Kevin, popping his head through the window. He’s an ex-Marine. Also a neighbor. We’ve started these five o’clock follies, always involving grog, arguments, and lots of snacks, from peanuts to carrot sticks …

August 12, 2021
Communal Coffee’s tempting toast bar

How many times have I potholed my way up University, juddering past this place and watching it transform from a lamp store, think it was, to this so-cool coffee, food, cool-merch emporium, right next to …

August 5, 2021
Siam Imperial Thai Kitchen's Tom Yum Kung: hot hot hot!

My favorite comfort food? This is my favorite comfort food. A soup that is making beads of sweat pop from my brow, that sends peppery shafts radiating out into my gills. Then the flavor that …

July 29, 2021
Hard times, happy hours at Taste & Thirst

So how has the Gaslamp fared through covid? Walking up Fourth around Market, got to say, not too well by the looks. Lot of doors closed, patios empty, and the ones that are open, not …

Poway’s Baba Kabob never slows down

Oh man. I do this every time: show up at my wannabe favorite place, Chennai Tiffins, just as it’s closing for the afternoon. This is in Little India, up by Miramar. I sit down in …

July 15, 2021
Krispy Kreme Triple Burger and fried Oreos find comfort at the San Diego County Fair

I knew it was going to be a difficult day when I locked myself out. “We have to be there by 12, remember?” yelled Tim. He was waiting in his car. The guy has a …

July 8, 2021
Lola 55: respectful of Oaxacan tortilla quality

Last week’s tortilla-throwing incident came just as I was discovering a new dimension in San Diego’s tortilla/taco world. It was an accidental discovery. I got off the 235 rapid bus after an hour-long ride (and …

July 1, 2021
Pegah’s Kitchen: a blast from the past in Escondido

“Okay, I give up,” Mag says. “Why is this place called Pegah’s Kitchen?” “Because it’s a breakfast place and ‘Pegah’ means ‘Dawn’ in Persian. Breakfast time!” I’m guessing about that last part, because this is …

Gen Korean BBQ: the other KFC

Is the world going Korea-kerazy? Might could be. Not just K-Pop. Also KBBQ. Everywhere I look, there’s another Korean barbecue joint popping up. “Missy wants to go there,” says Maggy on the phone. “It’s good …

June 17, 2021
Swiss dogs win in Zona Rio

Eduardo Gonzalez guards the door to the dungeon, as he has been doing for decades. Nobody gets past without his say-so. The neon sign shines red. Sótano Suizo. “Swiss Cellar.” Swiss in TJ? Well yes. …

June 10, 2021
Homestyle Korean Hawaiian

Oh mama. I was counting on these guys. Just hopped off the 44 where Linda Vista Road meets Mesa College Drive. ’Cause I know a couple of über-cheap places where I can pick up a …

Feast and Fareway: public golf course with sliders

“This is our sport,” says Annie, “and don’t you Sassenachs forget it.” Did I mention? My friend Annie is Scottish. “Sassenachs” (“Saxons”) basically means anyone who’s not Scottish. We’re standing at the entrance to the …

May 27, 2021
F-HOP, not IHOP

I am sitting, staring like a stunned ox. “I told you it was real,” says Sully. My buddy and I are sitting here, under tents, a stone’s throw from the 805, on Plaza Boulevard in …

May 20, 2021
Trattoria Etrusco: like eating a cloud

“Never start a restaurant on the moon,” says my friend John. “Why’s that?” “It’ll have no atmosphere, dude.” Man. Should have seen that coming. He’s just declined to take the trolley with me south to …

May 13, 2021
Smokey’s Lake Wohlford Cafe: old-school country diner

Sparkling waters! Blue, rippling, and fresh. You come across them suddenly, on this twisty road in the mountains, heading towards Valley View Casino. It’s Lake Wohlford. First time I’ve ever seen it. Two minutes later, …

May 6, 2021
Grasshoppers, and the elixir of the gods

“Listen, kid, people have been flinging their fangs around these little guys for generations. I think we can handle them once and live to tell the tale.” “I’m not touching them. Forget it.” ‘They’re salty. …

April 29, 2021
Barrio bourbon at Liberty Call Distilling Co.

Cheery-looking chap’s taking a sip of beer. We’re in the Barrio, up from Northgate Market, in this little restaurant row beside Cesar E. Chavez Parkway. Sign says “Liberty Call,” and shows off big anchors and …

April 22, 2021
When burrito met Philly at El Pollo Grill

“Believe me!” says my new friend Timothy. “It’s like ‘When burrito met Philly.’ It’s just meat, Philly cheesesteak carne asada, onions, bell peppers, and Monterey Jack cheese, melted. But that’s all you need! Slices of …

April 15, 2021
Pork belly evolution

“The whole ramen thing again?” says my friend Annie. We’re on the phone. “No. This is like the original, and IMHO the best,” I say. “Come on down! Sun’s got two fists to go!” Up …

April 8, 2021
Pump House Gang hang

Tom Wolfe! Too freakin’ much! Here? And the pump house gang? Where the heck are they? Tom, John, Nealy, Artie, Pam, Liz, Vicki, Jacki Haddad, Kit, and hey, Jack MacPherson, the crazy instigator of the …

April 1, 2021
Get Friendly with an OG Dirty Flat Top

It’s that super-chilly Monday last week. The sun has just set and temps have dropped with a clang. Knife-edge breeze. At the corner of Upas and 30th, I’m standing trying to decide where to chow …

March 25, 2021
Sr. Taquito: Molcajete heat on a cold night

Maggie’s regretting ever opening her mouth. She stands back from where this guy is throwing his into the mic. “You and I are just two leaves in the wind,” he croons. The crowd at his …

March 18, 2021
The barrio’s hopping at Side Yard BBQ

“Welcome to Caballero’s Homey Jammmm!” scribbles this gal on a piece of paper. Music’s too loud for talking. We’re sitting right in front of this group of jamming Latin jazz players, playing live to maybe …

March 11, 2021
A breakfast to remember at Golden Hill Cafe

“I’ve just signed a lease for another 10 years,” says Carmen. “I’m 71. We’re in the middle of a pandemic. People say I’m crazy.” This is 8:30 in the morning, in the Golden Hill Cafe, …

March 4, 2021
Sophia Cucina: Colors. Aromas. Flavors

She looks down on you as you come in. Sophia. Sophia Loren, that is. Her portrait is on the wall here, lit up like a Mona Lisa. We’re in a very cool-looking building with a …

February 25, 2021
Flavors of East Africa at the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market

Teagan (“Think ‘Reagan’” she says) saws away at her violin right by the entrance. She’s playing Arianna Grande’s “34+35.” Sounds really cool. Actually, this whole scene is hard to beat. Saturday morning, sunshine, cool breeze …

February 18, 2021
Song Hak Korean BBQ: intestinal fortitude

I have this noodle idea in my noodle. Korean noodles. I was up here on Convoy looking for the kind of “glass noodles” that my friend Clive, who was stationed in Korea, says are i) …

February 11, 2021
Paris Bakery: Don’t forget Tet

Just been hearing about the baguettes of the Paris Bakery. (“Golden Dreams” 1/7/21) And when I coupled that with Reader reader Wink Sajack hauling me over the coals about the cost of some of the …

February 4, 2021
Japanese curry?

“Konnichiwa!” I love how all the crew in some Japanese eateries stop everything when customers arrive or leave and shout out “Konnichiwa!” Kind of “Hello!” “Good bye!” “Thank you!” “Good day!” I don’t know about …

January 28, 2021
Tortilla soup for the soul

I used to have a conscience about this: eating at a place that I knew was kind of working the system. I felt, ‘What about all the others who are staying closed down, playing by …

January 21, 2021
The Local poutine routine

“It’s pandemic Armageddon, downtown,” says Jess. She’s the general manager here. She’s just brought out my poutine. “We’re hanging on by our fingernails.” Armageddon? She’s talking about the number of homeless people who come by, …

January 7, 2021
Tin Fish: oysters and champagne

“I’ve got a hundred bucks that says we celebrate!” I say. “Uh huh,” says Annie. “Now, on this braw, bricht, moonlicht nicht?” It’s like five o’clock. Dark already. We’re just starting out along the Imperial …

December 31, 2020
Miss Kim’s delicious dilemmas

David hunches over the ocean, elbows on rail, playing his harmonica. He holds long notes. “See? They like it,” he says. “See? See?” And wow. I’m looking below, and two dolphin fins come knifing through …

December 24, 2020
Pizza Bella: best pizza in America

Happy Fonso bongos away to a recorded song coming out of his car. “Working for tips,” his cardboard signs says. “Your help is needed and appreciated. Thanks!” Except, since the lockdown, Old Town is pretty-much …

December 17, 2020
Burgers Bait and Beer: Eat the Kraken!

“Let’s go fishing! I’m at the South Embarcadero. You can rent poles for $5 and buy bait and eat hot dogs and watch Huey sink into the West, all at the same time!” “Where are …

December 10, 2020
Find the two great “kings” at Ye Olde Plank

“Hey,” says Kim. “How come they can serve meals inside here? They grandfathered in?” “Make that ‘great-grandfathered,’” I say. I happen to know. This place has been in business since 1886, not that I was …

December 3, 2020
Prickles of pepper at Gaslamp Breakfast Company

Gaslamp Quarter. People wary. Streets empty. Seagulls fighting over scraps. One place crowded: breakfast joint on 6th and J. It’s blossoming in sky-blue umbrellas and rosy pink chairs. And busy! Really surprising at this time, …

November 26, 2020
Ichiban: glowing with a cozy openness

Coming out of the DMV (trying to get a “Real ID”), Normal Street. Heading for University. Need nosh. But where to? Okay, I already know. Specially now, four in the afternoon, happy hour at my …

November 19, 2020

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