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Stories by Ed Bedford

Mexico fire comes up canyon to Campo

How they fought 2004 Campo fire After it crested, the fire started "running pretty hard" east along the ridgeline. "We were coming along holding it with engines," Scully says, "and we were actually being very …

November 26, 2022
Addis Restaurant: Ethiopian eats, St. George and Harar beers oiling the works — a lot of fun

Oh yes. THIS is how to start your day. Fire-roasted Arabica coffee beans sending their smoky aroma up my nostrils, right beside a blue pylon of incense smoke. We’re talking coffee beans that have come …

November 17, 2022
Ed Fernandez Birrieria voted by Yelp as the best taco joint in America

“That used to be the beef jerky place,” says Will. He lives around here. “See? It’s in one of the apartments of that building. Weird. Pretty popular, though.” We’re sitting in Will’s ’95 Bronco, in …

November 3, 2022
Charlie’s Family Restaurant: “a wetter omelet is a better omelet.”

He’s waiting as we come in: my window-cleaner friend Tim. His motto is “Your Panes Are My Pleasure.” Cheeriest chappie I know. He gets around, and he’s always steering me to the places near where …

October 20, 2022
SongHak BBQ: Korean comfort food

“Think globally, drink locally,” says this one guy’s T-shirt. And people are sure obeying that law here. Whole long table of mostly guys, back from a sport fishing trip and whooping it up. “That’s one …

October 6, 2022
BVM BBQ Grill Pizzeria: beef brisket in a Charles Dickens factory scene

“Eat hot to cool down,” my aunt used to say. “And drink hot, too.” “What does that mean?” says my neighbor Kevin when I quote her to him on this stinking hot day last week. …

September 22, 2022
Donna Jean Vegan Restaurant: non-pizza, non-pasta dishes — mostly comfort food

Wow. Red peppers in the sunset! They shine scarlet in the late afternoon light. Calabrian chile. The peppers are about the only “real” thing in this vegan meal I’m eating. But the rest of the …

September 8, 2022
Karina’s Ceviche Bar ‘n Tacos: Smart tacos

“Oh no!” This is Diane. New to ’Diego. She has just picked up her gobernador taco, chomped in, and watched a splot of orange taco juice squirt out onto her shirt. Her white shirt. “Tacos!” …

August 25, 2022
Sausage day at Ping Yang Thai Skewer & More

There’s Thai and there’s Thai. You have Thai down south near Malaysia, where we’re talking fish, thick curries, coconuts. Up north, far from the sea, near the mountains of Laos and China, we’ve got freshwater …

August 18, 2022
Morning Glory: breaking fast, and quick in Little Italy

“Nothing demoralizes an aspiring escoffier faster than requiring him to cook eggs over easy.” That’s Anthony Bourdain, quoted on the menu I’m looking at. Happily, I can see that this is not going to be …

August 11, 2022
Crazy for Kajmak at Old World Meat Company

“My grandfather was Archduke Ferdinand,” says Laura casually. “He was assassinated in Sarajevo in 1914.” Whoa. The assassination that started World War One? Her grandfather? Laura and Bosko, her husband, definitely hail from the Serbian …

August 4, 2022
Filipino Grill: Pancit plus

“What time is it?” “Six-thirty in the am.” “Where are we?” “Don’t even look, pappy. We’re in the Philippines. Can’t you smell the food?” I can. Vinegar, fish, BBQ. Ria, my beloved stepkid who’s no …

July 28, 2022
Parc Bistro Brasserie: a brasserie, a bistro, a very French café

The angel Gabriel blasts his golden trumpet high above Fifth Avenue. It glints in the evening sun from the dome of The Abbey, the massive onetime church across the road. “I am worth it,” I …

July 21, 2022
Colima’s Mexican Restaurant: beef, chicken, or... iguana?

Where is everybody? This was last Tuesday, in Oceanside. I was looking for food. Don’t look for food on Tuesday afternoons. So many places are closed. Specially last Tuesday, the day the whole nation fell …

Stout Public House: Stanley Cup Hockey brekky

“We don’t talk a lot, but we do yell a lot,” says Jamie Dambois. Yah, for sure, there’s a lot of shouting at the screens here. Small surprise: this is the last week of the …

Trax Bar & Cafe: rollicking towards Wellington Central

Purple gives way to pink gives way to blue. Dawn is cracking late here in the Southern Hemisphere. We’re at a tiny country railroad station at seven on this winter’s morning, waiting for the train. …

June 30, 2022
Fed Up Restaurant & Takeaway: more paua to you

“New Season First Grade Bluff Oysters! Here we go, mate,” says Russell. “This is the one. This place is da bomb.” We’re sitting beside a small sign: “Fed Up Restaurant & Takeaway,” here in Paraparaumu, …

June 16, 2022
Bare Back Grill: Finding Fergburger

“Just don’t ask me to taste mutton or lamb,” says my neighbor Kevin. “That’s all I ask.” Uh-oh. I have this bee in my bonnet about lamb. And about burgers. I want to see the …

June 9, 2022
Birria Madrigal: gourmet goat “garbage”

Barrio Logan? It’s hopping. A sort of food cluster is forming right around Thorn Brewing’s Barrio Logan factory. They’ve opened a big eatery called ReBru Spirits, where — don’t ask me how — they convert …

Doggos Gus: Imperial Beach’s bacon brat

“So long, Huey.” It’s a biker muttering this. He ain’t old enough to have picked up that Vietnam moniker for the sun, but he says it anyway. Because yes, that last moment’s coming. People have …

May 26, 2022
Dobermans in Earthquake Park

“It was beauty that killed the beast,” reads the sentence etched into the blond bar counter. “If you tell the truth, you don’t have to remember anything.” On and on. Sayings, thoughts, bon mots, the …

May 19, 2022
Abay Ethiopian Market and Restaurant: flavors that marinate in your mouth

“Eee-yew! Spongey!” cries my buddy Tim. “And you have to eat with your fingers? A mess! Why can’t we have a knife and fork like at any other place?” He has just unrolled a section …

May 12, 2022
Coffee shop: Pooh-poohing the poopie suit

It’s a sunny breezy morning. John Man, tall, slightly stooped, plenty of hair for his age, a guy who listens more than he talks, is shooting the breeze at coffee with his buddies. As usual, …

May 11, 2022
Kiko’s Place food truck: Lunch in the rushes

Oh wow. Ducks. They’re swimming up to me. I can see their little webbed feet pumping hard against the current. Wish I had something in my pocket for them. I’m standing by this beautiful pool …

May 5, 2022
Deliciosos Tacos: Chicken necks! Kentucky Fried Buches! Not KFC

“Let me show you my favorite chicken neck place.” That’s me. Neighbor Kevin and I are crossing the border, heading south. “Your favorite chicken…what?” “Chicken necks, dude. You ever tried them?” He looks at me …

April 28, 2022
Break-fast after sundown at UCSD’s Canyon Vista Food Hall

What Meshal is going through right now — “now” being the holy month of Ramadan, with its ban on eating while the sun is up — is not easy. But it has its consolations. “The …

April 21, 2022
Kansas City Barbecue: when pigs fly

Somehow, I seem to be stuck on a BBQ kick. Just can’t get enough of it. Take tonight: it’s dusk, and I’m looking across the street to the long, low Kansas City Barbecue, the last …

April 14, 2022
Clem’s Tap House: deelish, and perfect with the Böen Pinot Noir

How do you get the best out of happy hour? Mandy and I think we have the perfect in: Bleu Bohème in Kensington. She knows the place. It looks expensive and French, but she says …

BBQ House Bar & Grill: souped-up Sloppy Joe

My neighbor Kevin is a particular guy. Knows what he likes. Right now, he has a sudden urge for OB. We’re on Newport. “In this town,” he says, “they have the best burgers.” He points …

March 31, 2022
Ed sits with Ukraine at the Georgian-Russian Pomegranate

In my search for Ukrainian food, I end up on ECB - El Cajon Boulevard. Talking North Park here. I’m outside Pomegranate, the Georgian-Russian restaurant of Golden Hill fame. Georgian owner Mark was the jokingest …

Old Venice Restaurant: Don’t knock gnocchi

Some bars just get it. They know who they are. They make you feel you know who you are. I walk into this place on Cañon Street in Point Loma and I feel congeniality wrapping …

March 17, 2022
Beach Hut Deli & Ryan Bros Deli: Bob Hope statue, soup, sandwich

Goodness gracious. It’s Bob Hope, the stand-up icon from WWII. His voice echoes around the waterfront. “Good evening, ladies and gentlemen… My grandfather was a famous naval hero […] You may have read about him: …

March 10, 2022
Tuétano Taqueria: Old Town has good bones

Honestly, I walked up through Old Town without a lot of hope. These have been tough days, specially for Congress, and I don’t mean DC. I’m talking about the Cinderella street, the one that always …

Cafe Indonesia: a multi-National City

Say what? As my 929 stretch limo (read: bus) hauls me through National City, we pass a big ol’ sprawling furniture place that I remember used to take up most of the block here at …

February 24, 2022
Players Sports Grill: the pleasures of Poway

Whew. Big relief. Kevin’s paying. Because in Poway, covid put paid to Happy Hour. At least here in the Players Sports Bar. Players is near the DMV and Walmart. And also — good for us …

February 17, 2022
STK Steakhouse: serious San Diego steaks

Tuesday, 4 pm. Sixth Avenue is not exactly busy. The Hustler Hollywood store has a couple of old geezers staring at open bras on plastic models. I came here thinking more about my stomach. Hmm. …

February 10, 2022
Visit the ancient clifftop hotel named after Queen Calafia

Oh no! “Rosy! Rápido, por favor!” Rosy whips around. She makes a wild grab at the gull as he’s about fly over the cliff with my Bistro Burger. The wooden rail keeps her from launching …

Waterfront Bar & Grill: chomp ’n chat with good vibes

Needed some company. Little Italy had plenty of people, but there was no real action at the Happy Hour places. Somehow ended up on Kettner. Somehow ended up opposite the Waterfront. Huh. No big mention …

January 27, 2022
A lesson in spices at Ban Lao Cuisine

Night has clanged down on City Heights like an emergency curtain at a movie theater. It’s easy to get lost in this gloom once you’re out of the #7 bus, but, just past Happy Bubbles …

January 20, 2022
Curryosity serves South Asia in South Park

Hot curry on a cold night? I think so. Besides, this place, as the day fades and the lights start winking on, just calls my name. “Come in! Get warm! Taste the chutney, the curry, …

January 13, 2022
Dining on the Pacific Surfliner: breakfast and a beer

Clickety-clack along the track! We’re rolling! The Pacific Surfliner snakes through the hills around Sorrento Valley, slowly, methodically rounding the canyon curves like a hunting dog following his nose. That distant horn I hear? Oh …

Swayed by Palmys in Pacific Beach

You look at Palmys and you straightway think Dunedin, Queenstown, Raglan. All those pubs are named after Kiwi hometowns. They have sprung up around ’Diego these last few years, and now here’s this new one: …

December 31, 2021
Santee's Creation Museum, the nuns behind Mercy Hospital

A Little Bit East of Eden There are also sharp disputes about Noah's Ark within the Creationist movement. Some years ago, in the ICR museum, I helped John Morris, their principal ark investigator, look for …

December 26, 2021
SD Sliders: dream business

“Sure, I went to culinary school. The School of You Tube.” You’ve got to hand it to Dale. He seems to have single-handedly created this San Diego Empire of the Small Burger. Right now, I’m …

December 23, 2021
Crab City: crab grab

Say what? “You’re pouring the dinner onto the paper table cloth??” “That’s why we give you plastic gloves,” says Jordan. Then he’s off. And there I am, sitting with my puddle of sauce and potatoes …

December 16, 2021
IB Thai: not afraid to be rich, or hot

Love surprises! Neighbor Kevin and I are coming out of the ocean after a lunchtime swim. Was it cold? You betcha, for the first minute. But once you’re body surfing, all you’re thinking about is …

December 9, 2021
Blue Line trolley to Nobel Drive to Poki One N Half

This. Is. Fabulous. Talking about the new Blue Line. We’re zinging up where no trolley has gone before. New stations with unknown names like “Tecolote Road,” (Turns out “Tecolote” means “owl” in Nahuatl) and “Clairemont …

December 2, 2021
Eureka!: like the Samoa Cookhouse fed the lumberjacks

“This is North County, so let’s not expect cheap,” says my friend Diana. No sticker shock for her. She’s into swanky malls like this one, UTC. Problem: sign says the mall closes at eight, but …

November 25, 2021
Village Pizzeria value in Coronado

Unexpected pleasure! Here, in the midst of Coronado’s Golden Quarter-Mile, is one of the secret bargains of the Sceptered City. I come across it as I’m loping north on the western side of Orange Avenue. …

November 18, 2021
La Vecindad: Mexico City in Hillcrest

It’s the colors, here in this neighborhood that’s celebrating with tacos and beer and lots of noise, half a block from 5th and University. “Escandalo!”, a gal’s singing again and again. It looks like a …

November 11, 2021

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