Ichiban ("Number One" in Japanese) has been here three decades, and still gets as crowded as when it first opened. Why? All-Japanese crew, real bargains, and a real easy atmosphere. The best values are at lunch, with weekday specials like Bento combos (sushi rolls, crab, salmon, rice) and filling soups overflowing with veggies and thick udon noodles. Inexpensive.

The Place: Ichiban, 1449 University Avenue, 619-299-7203

Hours: 11:30am – 9:30pm Monday to Thursday; till 10pm, Friday and Saturday; till 9pm, Sunday; happy hour, 3-8pm daily

Happy Hour Prices: California roll, with imitation crab and avocado, $3.25; avocado and cucumber roll, $3.25; spicy California roll, $3.50; Philadelphia roll, $4.50; the Rainbow (California plus sashimi), $6.50; Red Dragon (fried shrimp, imitation crab, cucumber, spicy tuna), $7; the Vegetable (lettuce, avo, cucumber, radish, burdock, pickled gourd), $4.25; chicken katsu, $4.50; fried soft shell crab, in soy paper, $5.50; chicken karage, $5.75; grilled salmon collar, $5.45; grilled yellowtail collar, $9.50; calamari legs, $6.75, Spam musubi, $3.50; crunchy roll (fried shrimp, imitation crab), $6.25; hot sake (small, HH), $1.25

Buses: 1, 7, 10, 11, 215,

Nearest Stop: University at Normal (1, 11); Park Boulevard and University (7, 10 eastbound, 215) University at Centre Lane (10, westbound)