Su-Mei Yu's new book. "In 1981 a restaurant called Trieu Chau opened at 4653 University Avenue, near the intersection with Menlo Street. It was incredible."

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Cracking the Coconut

Thais are losing their taste for Thai food.

"Back in the late 1960s, there was only one Thai market I was aware of, Bangkok Market on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles. It opened in 1968 and it carried mostly canned goods, no vegetables, no spices."

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