Tin Fork

No revolving sushi for Sweety Puss

Flame blistered by Kenji, the chef with the impressive flame-thrower in the kitchen.

Convoy. I’m trying to find this danged eatery my friend Annie is all abuzz about. “It’s fabbo, darling! It’s a revolving restaurant. That is, the food revolves around you. Little food boats on these tracks. ...

Paella Sunday

“Saved you the best part. The scrapings.”

‘Paella!” Frank Pazos parades the steaming pan out of the kitchen, down the steps, and into the bar. Eighteen orange langustas (I count them) lie curled up on a yellow bed of saffron rice, green ...

Cuba’s best teacher at Los Pollos in Chula Vista

I don’t know why guava isn’t more popular.

“I was a professor,” says Rafael. “A licenciado. I taught history, specializing in Persia and Greece. And in 2015, I was named best teacher in the nation.” That nation was Cuba. Yet now he’s a ...

Bedford dreams of Indian food

I don’t miss meat for a second

‘There’s no such spice as curry,” says Wendy. “Curry is a western invention.” Say what? “Curry is a cooked dish using masala, and ‘masala’ means ‘a mix of spices.’ Any mix.” Wendy should know. She’s ...

The mother of chili at Sister Ray's

"She kinda teleported the recipe back to Spain."

You puff up to this hilltop eatery. You see the gang behind the counter. You think one thing: ZZ Top! Because darned near everybody here has a beard. Okay, only Kevin has the full-on ZZ ...

The pleasure of food from fingers to mouth

“I drive ten miles every day, just to get this coffee.”

So what is the difference between Ethiopian and Somali food? Last week, when my friend Annie and I were in Addis, a newish Ethiopian eatery on El Cajon Boulevard, two ladies came to eat at ...

No knives or forks

Why not switch Irish stew to Ethiopian stew?

Cold night. I’m walking down El Cajon Boulevard, fully intending to cut north and head for Rosie O’Grady’s pub on Adams Avenue for a solid Irish stew. What’s making me hesitate is this Ethiopian place ...

Kumeyaay, cawfee, and candy canes

Coming down from the mountain and hitting The Trails

Just came off the mountain. Been dreaming of sitting down, taking a load off, slurping the first gulp of cawfee. Got a mountainous appetite. On the other hand, this morning has been totally exhilarating, climbing ...

The memory of swordfish

Just enough spice to give the white flesh a come-hither taste

The waves crash as if this were an episode of Poldark. Sun and spume glint through the colored plastic surfboard sculptures, here at IB’s Portwood Pier Plaza. “So I’m still looking,” says Kevin. We’re meeting ...

Necks and Chicks

“That’s 144,000 chickens a year! All in this little place.”

Hey hey! Holiday season’s here and da geese are getting fat, but I’m here for chicken necks, my yuletide snack. So good to be in TJ again. I know. Not the best timing. But it’s ...

I’ve gone crazy and ordered a breakfast salad

And the bread bowl is not just a cheaper choice on the menu, it’s delicious

‘Body Butter,” says the sample the guy’s handing out. “Free application,” he says. “Step inside.” So La Jolla. “Not now,” I say. Truth is, I’m desperate for brekky. And also, I wanna to try this ...

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