Four Tunas Fish & Bar: survivors’ big dreams in North County

The intersection of North Broadway and Washington is buzzy and busy. If you’re not careful, you might miss the signage for Four Tunas, which is bumped up against Adriana’s Insurance Services in one corner of the Country Corner Shopping Center parking lot. But keep an eye out, and you’ll find a large covered patio with family style seating and a door to take you inside.

According to our server (and a GoFundMe page set up in January 2018), owners Vanessa and Fernando were in a horrific accident that ejected them from their vehicle, causing broken bones and internal bleeding. It also completely destroyed their popular Baja-inspired food truck, El Cevichito. But as their GoFundMe page exclaims, while “we are devastated as we see the images left behind, our dreams are bigger than this!” In 2020, they opened Four Tunas Fish & Bar — perhaps a play on words? As our server Teresa explained, “They are survivors!”

To start, my pal Sophia and I ordered a Tamarindo Margarita ($10). The tamarindo paste is made in-house from ripened tamarind fruit, which gives off an intensely sweet/sour/tangy flavor slightly reminiscent of raisins or cranberries. Potent on its own, the paste isn’t meant to be consumed by itself, but as an excellent addition to the margarita. The salt and Tajin on the rim of the margarita glass completed the presentation. Sophia said that the margarita was her favorite thing of all, so we weren’t surprised to learn it was a staff favorite as well.

Don’t come here if you don’t like fish. You may find one or two items with beef, but after that, it’s pulpo (octopus), marlin, mahi mahi, oysters, crab, calamari, scallops, shrimp and of course, tuna. You can best sample everything with either the Seafood Mix Taco ($5.95) or the “Torre” Tostada ($24.95), a tower of layered seafood almost too beautiful to destroy. Otherwise, there are over 15 different fish tacos to try ($3.50-$6.95), and they are protein-generous — you won’t be overwhelmed by the heaping mound of purple cabbage so common at other taco joints. Burrito and entree options run $15.75-$24.95. Specialty items like lobster and whole octopus are available at market price.

Mind the chile icons! If you’re anything like me (raised in the Midwest on meat and potatoes), you might not be able to handle the heat. I ordered the Tropical Tostada ($15.95), and while the menu didn’t mention it, the dish included Habanero chiles for which I was not mentally prepared. Pass the milk! Despite my tingling lips, the flavor of the mango puree on the ahi tuna was magical, and made me want to dance naked on a beach surrounded by turquoise waters. (If you prefer a milder version, adjustments can be made.)

My personal favorite was the Aguachiles sampler. Translated as “Chile Water,” this Mexican style ceviche utilizes fresh Baja shrimp, cured in a mixture of lime juice and other ingredients — the result is delicious. There are five variations, and although it’s not advertised on the menu, you can request three different aguachiles instead of just one when you order ($23.95). Our server’s favorite was the verde, which quickly became ours as well. It was the mildest of the three options, but also the most balanced and refreshing. The predominant flavors were cucumber, red onion, lime, and serrano chile. By the end, I was scooping up the broth with a spoon.

End your meal with a pretty and simple desert, such as Fried Ice Cream ($5.95) or homemade Flan ($5.95). I especially appreciated the flan’s coating, soothing effect on my overheated taste buds.