Kala Jeanneret(28) surfs Churches.

Are you a local?

No, I’m from Illinois. I moved to California after reaching a point in my life where I was like, I can either go this way and know what the rest of my life will look like, or go the other way and just have no idea. I chose the other way.

How long have you been surfing?

I taught myself how to swim in 2019. When I first came out to California, I would come and sit at the beach all the time. I just thought it was amazing. One day I went in the water and tried dog paddling around. I knew that wasn’t the safest, so I got some flippers and started getting out there more often. I have a good friend who taught me how to properly swim so I feel way more comfortable now. One day I asked a friend if he would take me surfing. I was curious to see what it was like. He put me on a board and that was it.

Have you had any surf injuries?

I broke my back surfing in September. I had worked three days straight and was really tired. It was a trippy, trippy day. My boyfriend and I went out to First Point in Malibu. I took a wave that I really shouldn’t have taken. I came off of it kind of funny. I was a little careless. By chance, a total freak accident, I just so happened to land on a boulder. It snapped my back—my sacrum in half. When I got out of the water, I felt nothing. It was probably one of the most beautiful experiences I have ever had. It was just like nothingness existed and then suddenly I felt a lot of pain. I couldn’t move. Someone placed me on their surfboard and lifted me out. An ambulance came. I was [at the hospital] for like 5 days. They taught me how to move with a walker. I am super blessed and so lucky that I get to walk and move and surf again. I just started surfing again this January 3rd. It’s been mental. It’s been super fun!

Were you scared to surf again after an injury like that?

The first 3 or 4 days back out there were a little rough. I took it easy. Once it clicked again, I was all good. I was full force back in it. It’s so fun. I love surfing!

What has been your most beautiful moment surfing?

Every single moment in the water. My first week out after breaking my back, I got barreled at Rincon. That was such a warm welcome back to the ocean. That was sick!

If you could surf anywhere, where would you surf?

I just sublet my apartment. I am doing the van life. I am really excited to head up north and surf those spots. I would love to surf Mavericks. That would be so sick!

Advice for new surfers?

Trust your gut instinct, go at your own pace, and listen to the water around you because it will tell you all sorts of stuff about the world.