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Past the Kiewit yard, Monument Road meets the secondary border fence. Gonzales pushes a button, the gate slides open, and the Tahoe is back in no-man’s-land, heading west. Soon the graded dirt road becomes smooth blacktop, so new the blacktop is unfaded. The road climbs, paralleling the grade on Avenida Internacional, which hugs the south side of the primary fence. At the crest of the hill, the road levels out and stretches across the top of a newly completed earthen berm. The berm stands about 150 feet tall and stretches four times that from end to end. It was constructed with 1.3 million cubic yards of earth cut from the surrounding hills. It fills in Smuggler’s Gulch, a deep wash that extends north from Mexico and ends at the Tijuana River floodplain. Until Operation Gatekeeper, the gulch, as its name implies, was a hangout for smugglers of drugs, immigrants, and illegal alcohol, during Prohibition. As he steers the Tahoe down a road that descends the south face of the berm, Gonzales recalls, “When I started, this area was full of immigrants and smugglers staging here, waiting to cross. There were a lot of old burned-out cars down there because they used this canyon for drive-overs.”

A drive-over is when illegal immigrants attempt to beat la migra by piling into a vehicle, opening a hole in the fence, and driving through. But the days of driving through Smuggler’s Gulch are definitely over. The berm, bristling with light standards, crowned with the secondary fence, has put a stop to that. At the bottom of the hill, a shorter berm, across which runs the primary fence, funnels water into twin concrete culverts, each ten by ten feet. Gates made of six-inch-thick steel bars block the culverts to foot traffic. Culverts of similar dimensions run under the main berm and spill out in the river valley. Today, there’s no water running under the berms. “But a lot of water comes out here when it rains,” Gonzales says. “So we open these gates to let it through, otherwise there’d be a lake in Mexico.”

Some in Mexico are concerned that not enough care was taken to ensure proper drainage of the Valle Montezuma, as Smuggler’s Gulch is known south of the fence. Dr. Juan Manuel Rodríguez Esteves, director of the Department of Urban Studies and the Environment at Tijuana’s Colegio de la Frontera Norte, is concerned that the berm will “clog the arroyo. The problem is that on the Mexican side, there is a deficit in public services, for example, garbage collection. This has been going on for many years within the history of the city. In Tijuana, it rains about 240 millimeters [about nine and a half inches]. But in years of El Niño, like in 1993 and 1998, it doubles. And when the intense rain comes — and they are intense rains — it brings all the trash, it brings abandoned cars to the lower part of the canyon, and what is going to be happening is the berm is going to become a dam.”

Told of Rodríguez’s concerns, Gonzales shrugs and says, “I don’t know why he’s worried. The Mexicans built their own berm across the gulch a long time ago.” He points to the berm about 500 yards south of the border. The highway connecting Tijuana Centro and Playas de Tijuana runs across the top. “If there were going to be a problem, it would have happened over there.”

Before the berm was built, Border Patrol agents had to traverse the canyon via steep dirt switchbacks on the canyon sides. The roads were narrow, bumpy, and subject to washouts in bad weather. Now, Gonzales’s Tahoe zips across Smuggler’s Gulch in a couple of minutes. West of the gulch, the road descends gradually and crosses over a much shallower gulch running north from Playas. “We discovered Kumeyaay artifacts here, so we had to build up this area so as not to disturb them.”

Here there are three fences, the landing-mat primary, the razor-wire-topped secondary, then a chain-link tertiary fence, maybe 30 feet north of the secondary. “We recently bought this area from the County,” Gonzales says. “The third fence is basically to delineate the boundary between federal and county land.”

The all-weather road hasn’t been completed all the way to the ocean yet, so Gonzales turns off onto a dirt road still flooded from winter rains. He drives 100 yards through water halfway up the tires; then the road climbs to the little mesa on which sits Border Field State Park. The only thing that marks this as a park is a handful of concrete picnic tables surrounded by thigh-high weeds. The Playas bullfighting ring and lighthouse loom across the fence. Until recently, people were able to come to this park and talk to people on the south side. Newspaper stories reported that families would hold binational picnics here, passing food through the fence and playing volleyball over it. But the Border Patrol doesn’t allow that anymore. “It was reported as if we were trying to break families apart,” Gonzales says, “but it was a smuggling nightmare. All sorts of things were being passed through the fence. People were using their crossing cards, then passing them through the fence here to someone else. Drugs were being passed through, even babies were being passed through. The volleyballs you heard about — they were filled with marijuana.”

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David Dodd May 3, 2009 @ 10:52 p.m.

"People were using their crossing cards, then passing them through the fence here to someone else. Drugs were being passed through, even babies were being passed through. The volleyballs you heard about — they were filled with marijuana."

Funny, I never read about that anywhere else. There are no court cases, no police reports, nothing. No missing babies. If you can link any evidence of this, I'll read it with an open mind. Until then, I doubt it.

Ernie, you do realize that twenty billion dollars worth of drugs pass into the U.S. from Mexico each year, and I doubt the credibility of beach balls being used through the big metal fence as part of it.

And the passing of crossing cards - that isn't the fault of the fence. It's the fault of the government of the United States of America and their inability to detect the good guys from the bad guys.

Obviously, Mr. Gonzales is going to want to see the border through his eyes. Here in Mexico, we see a different version of his reality. I'm not going to tell Gonzales how to do his job, but I can tell you that people, drugs, and documents are being passed through the border at the San Ysidro, Otay, and Tecate border crossings at a 100-1 ratio in comparison to what is going through, over, and under the big metal fence.


patriot04 April 30, 2009 @ 7:20 a.m.


Nicely written article, the five references to razor wire notwithstanding. Shame it is needed but you see there is a difference between a good neighbor and a friendly neighbor Ernie.

A good neighbor respects the property line. You really don't need a fence with them. Metaphorically speaking, they don't let their kids play on your grass or their dogs soil your lawn or garden. They are always good for a cup of sugar if you run out. They watch after each other and make sure no one harms the others property. They smile when you drive down the street and wave. They're a good neighbor. No fence needed or wanted.

Canada is a good neighbor.

The friendly neighbor smiles and waves as you go down the street too however as you look past them you'll see their kids destroying YOUR yard. Their dog is digging up your garden and if they need something that you have, well they just take it. After all, you have it, they want it, problem solved. You VERY DEFINITELY have to have a fence with that neighbor and if that friendly guy is also moonlighting as a drug or people smuggler, well, sad as it is, you're probably going to consider the dreaded razor wire.

Mexico is a friendly neighbor. Great food, beautiful resorts and largely a warm inviting culture. Deadly hangover after all the fun.

Wonder why we have razor wire and 20 foot fences? Peek over the other side. Were it not for that fence, it would be in YOUR neighborhood and in many cases with unfettered illegal immigration and an unprotected East County, it already is.


Ontheborder April 30, 2009 @ 7:58 a.m.

Interesting article, shame it is only about the 13 miles of fence. We need to look at the entire fence along our so-called “Good Neighbor Mexico”. If Mexico was a good neighbor they would clean up the areas along the borders, enrich their citizens by creating jobs that give the citizens of Mexico a decent living wage. I put the entire blame on Mexico itself that country needs to create a standard of living that draws people to it instead away form it. Mexico also needs to start enforcing patrols along its border just like the Border Patrol does on our side, this would slow down the crossing of drugs and people, but the Mexican officials are so corrupt and on the take that this won’t happen in the near future.

Americans overwhelming are in favor of the entire southern border being fenced, we want to keep out anyone who tries to enter this country illegally just like any other country in the word, just like Mexico.

As for all the trash and rubbish that flows into the gulches and streams, maybe Mexico could employ some of it’s thousands of unemployed to clean up the areas! Great opportunity to create a work program!

Americans love traveling to countries south of the border, but we do it legally, with passports & visas, we respect the laws of those lands we travel to or relocate into. The people who enter the country here illegally break the law with the first step into this country when they cross into it illegally. Americans want our laws enforced, we want Mexico to step up to it’s internal problems, we want the citizens of Mexico to prosper and create a better country and most of all we want everyone who comes here to the USA to come here legally and be a benefit to the country.


SpliffAdamz_ April 30, 2009 @ 9:10 a.m.

Are you serious!? Amerikkkans respect the laws of the lands they travel to? If they do , then why are there a bunch of drunk amerikkkans in TJ fighting other amerikkkans in the streets , in the clubs and pizzing on the streets?? I'm not saying that's all they travel down there for , but alot of that has been going on for decades. So to say amerikkkans respect other countries they travel to , is hard to believe. Try checking out TJ on friday or saturday night and see how amerikkkans really act in TJ!!! Clean up amerikkka first before you talk about what mexico needs to do, because it ain't peaches and cream in the good ole U$$A!!!


JulieParrots May 2, 2009 @ 2:02 p.m.

It is gonna be a loonnng while before Mexico will step up to the plate and fix the border issue. Also, Mexican officials aren't the only people who are corrupt as we see everyday that American officials themselves are corrupt.


SurfPuppy619 May 2, 2009 @ 3:05 p.m.

It is gonna be a loonnng while before Mexico will step up to the plate and fix the border issue.

Why would Mexico want top fix it?

They are exporting their poverty onto others, and get "remittences" back to the mother country in return.


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