"Hey," I say. "Never too late. Look at María. She crossed the world, made a new life, drove a cab, raised kids solo, started this up, and survived these fires, man. She's probably your second cousin. Start here."
The Place: Gulyas Csarda Restaurant, 4353 Highway 78 (at Wynola Road), Santa Ysabel
Type of Food: Hungarian
Prices: Gúlyás leves, Hungarian beef-vegetable soup, $8.50; chicken or pork wienerschnitzel, mashed potato, sautéed red cabbage, $13.50; Hungarian sausage, mash, red cabbage, $12.50; pork stew with mashed potatoes, $12.50; chicken paprika, sour cream, rice, $12.50; crêpe stuffed with chestnut paste (or hazelnut, chocolate syrup, apricot or plum jam), $4.20; apple strudel, $4.20
Hours: 12 noon-9 p.m., Wednesday-Sunday
Buses: Rural Bus 891, 892 from El Cajon Transit Center, departs 2:30 p.m. Thursday (892) and Friday (891) only. Cost: $5.00. Buses don't return till following morning. Call 619-442-8414.
Nearest Bus Stop: Outside
[2009 Editor's Note: Gulyas Csarda Restaurant has since closed.]