Bertrand at Mr. A's
2550 Fifth Avenue (12th floor), Banker's Hill
619-239-1377

The room is civilized and comfortable. The staff strikes just the right balance between friendliness and professionalism. The food is delicious. But up there on the top floor of a building high on Banker's Hill, there's a serious, ravishing distraction: the "only in San Diego" view. The cityscape surrounds you, from the looming East County hills to the twinkling lights of Point Loma across San Diego Bay. The wraparound terrace seduces you to leave your table and your dinner to catch a direct, unglassed view. But the dot on the "I" and the cherry on the sundae is that Bertrand's overlooks the Lindbergh Field landing path, with airplanes flying by at eye level and even below.