Best of 2001: Best Cuernavaca-Style Carne Asada

El Morelense
317 Dewey Street, Logan Heights
619-234-2750

Julio and Santos Arellano come from Cuernavaca, just south of Mexico City, in the state of Morelos, the home of revolutionary leader Emiliano Zapata. The food's just as revolutionary, says Julio. "You won't find this anywhere else in San Diego. Or in Tijuana. Not even L.A.! Morelos-style is famous," he says. Julio's older brother Santos does the cooking. Eating their cecina, a kind of salted, marinated carne asada, you're inclined to believe him. This is exceptionally flavorful. Santos also makes chicken and carne de adobada -- pork in the style of Morelos. "We sell 150 pounds of the adobada and cecina every week, most on Friday-Saturday-Sundays," says Julio. This part of Logan Heights used to be a little iffy to visit at night, but since last year, when the new Central Area Police Station opened 50 yards away on Commercial Avenue and Imperial, the neighborhood has become pleasant and much safer.