Best of 2000: Best Mole

El Agave Tequileria
2304 San Diego Avenue,
Old Town
(619) 220-0692

Say the word "mole" in reference to Mexican food, and what comes to mind is thick chocolate sauce replete with chiles placed over chicken. El Agave in Old Town offers four types of mole, derived from old recipes, some from the 19th Century. Chapas mole: Prepared from ground-roasted peanuts, it employs three kinds of chiles, which are cooked in a hot pan and puréed. Regarded as an old Indian recipe, it is found mainly in Guatemala and is best served on shrimp. Mole verde from Oaxaca employs fresh tomatillo sauce, chile de agua, chile serrano, epazote, herbs, roasted pumpkin seeds. The ingredients are mashed into a paste and place over pork or chile. Mole negro de Oaxaca is spicy and adored by those who prefer their chiles at incendiary level. Pasillas, mulatos, anchos, and chipotles are mixed with fried bananas, sesame seeds, peanuts, almonds, raisins, tomatillos, oregano, peppers, and cloves. It's almost black in color and goes well with pork or chicken. Agado en natas is the mildest of the moles because it's prepared from boiled cream combined with chile guajillo and chile pulla. This is a 19th-century recipe best with chicken. These four moles are available nightly.