Best of 2000: Best Falafel

Mama's Bakery and Lebanese Deli
4237 Alabama Street, North Park
(619) 688-0717

Mama's deli, just south of El Cajon Boulevard, is an old Craftsman shack hanging over the sidewalk, with just enough room inside for the person placing his order. Next door is a low-slung, trellised patio with a half-dozen plastic tables and chairs. Duck in there so you can have it fresh and warm. One of the guys'll bring it over to you. What you get is sajj bread, fresh off the pregnant griddle you see behind the counter. They lay out that toasted, fluffy wrap and spread on the sesame-seed sauce, called tahini, push onto that spiced-up croquettes made of chickpea mash, toss on a handful of salad and tomato, and lay in some cool, zesty pickle slices. They hand roll that baby tight and dress it in a paper cone, just for you, the next convert. What are you waiting for, hot sauce?