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Stories by Evelyn Grimm

Lost vision in the waves

Name: Santiago Guadalupe Age: 30 From: Ocean Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Santiago Guadalupe was heading to the showers, board on head, when we stopped to chat. “I just got this longboard. It’s a Murphy …

The most terrifying thing is the stingray

Name: Doc Waske Age: 74 From: La Mesa Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Don Waske was heading to the showers after a morning surf session. Waske started surfing San …

In those days, we didn’t have a leash

Name: Inge Morton Age: 80 From: Coronado Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Inge Morton was walking to the showers with board on her head when we stopped to chat. “I’ve been surfing here for 25 years, …

I got the nose of my board through my lip

Name: Sean Dunn Age: 24 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach Sean Dunn was heading to the showers in Ocean Beach after a long surf session when I approached him. Dunn learned how to surf here …

You step on land, get in the car, and reality hits

Name: Octavio Gonzalez Age: 39 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Octavio Gonzalez was sitting on a bench watching the surfers on the water when I stopped to chat. Gonzalez frequents Sunset Cliffs, “because it …

You can’t just catch any wave, there’s a pecking order

Name: Kevin Jimenez Age: 36 From: San Diego Location: Ocean Beach Kevin Jimenez was walking on the sidewalk toward Newport Avenue parking lot after a morning surf session. Jimenez usually surfs La Jolla, but today …

A world-class wave at Sunset Cliffs

Name: Sam Age: 36 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach I met up to chat with Sam at the Newport Avenue parking lot in Ocean Beach. OB is Sam’s local spot, despite occasional crowds and …

Ran over by dolphins

Name: Hayden Gore Age: 42 From: Ocean Beach Location: Sunset Cliffs Hayden Gore was heading down the long flight of stairs at Sunset Cliffs when we stopped to chat. Gore first started surfing in South …

Went over the falls on a 20-foot wave

Name: Fabiano Sarmento Age: 29 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach On a cloudy day in Ocean Beach, Fabiano Sarmento was walking to the showers with a neon board. “This board belongs to one of …

The hardest thing I’ve ever learned

Name: John Lavery Age: 63 From: Pacific Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park John Lavery was hauling his board up to the showers after a morning surf in Pacific Beach. Lavery started surfing when he moved …

My friends thought I was knocked out

Name: Alex Geller Age: 30 From: Pacific Beach Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a sunny day in Pacific Beach, Alex Geller was sitting in the sand. “I’m from Colorado but I’ve lived here for the …

Likes PB for stupidest reason

Names: Juli Redmerski and Don Hastings Ages: 57 and 55 From: Mission Bay and El Cajon Location: Tourmaline Surf Park It was a sunny day when I caught up with Juli Redmerski and Don Hastings …

Bit her lip at Sunset Cliffs

Name: Masa Rogers Age: 40 From: East County Location: Tourmaline Surf Park On a crowded day in Tourmaline, Masa Rogers was walking to the showers while balancing a board over her head. “There’s a nice …

Surfing changed my life

Name: Mike Age: 47 From: Ocean Beach Interviewed: Ocean Beach jetty Mike was ripping a large chunk of his board off. “Yeah, I knew this board needed to get retired. I heard it crack out …

Like a runner going for a run

Name: Bruce Fearson Age: 56 From: Clairemont Interviewed: Ocean Beach jetty On a 75-degree day, Bruce Fearson had just finished his morning surf session. Fearson’s primary beach is Scripps, but OB is a close second. …

At Black's you can cut off the foam board guy

Name: Isaac Lickona Age: 19 From: La Mesa Interview location: Mission Beach Jetty Isaac Lickona was washing off his board at the showers after a long surf session . “I was taught how to surf …

October 8, 2018
Skip Frye saw me and shaped me a board

Name: Florencia Age: 39 From: La Jolla Interviewed at: Tourmaline Surf Park “I started surfing when I was a 23-year-old, but I got better when I moved to California from Mar De Plata, Argentina, because …

Got fourth at Trestles

Name: Dave Hopper Age: 54 From: Midway district, Sports Arena Interview: Tourmaline Surf Park 54-year-old Dave Hopper started surfing at the age of 13. “My younger brother was surfing before me, so he gave me …

Just dinged my board of preference.

Name: Scott Age: 26 From: Mission Beach Interview: South Mission Beach Scott was heading to the showers. “There are beaches that don’t have good waves that I’ll always avoid. Tourmaline, that’s a combination of bad …

O.B. has a bit of everything

Name: Neil McCaffrey Age: 31 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach Neil McCaffrey started surfing in Rhode Island at the age of ten. Twenty-one years later, he is surfing all around San Diego. On this …

If you're a beginner, stay in Tourmaline

Name: Jules Nacario Age: 57 From: Mission Beach Location: South Mission Beach, Jetty Jules Nacario was walking up to the showers after a long surf session. “This is a pretty modern surf craft. It’s Tomo, …

You just got to yell at people

Name: Bryce Victery Age: 26 From: Mission Beach Location: South Mission, Jetty It was a windy day at the jetty when Bryce Victery pulled his board out of the water after a morning surf. Victery …

I saw the shark go past the tip of my board

Name: Steve Jones Age: 51 From: Chula Vista Location: Tourmaline Surf Park It was a cloudy day at Tourmaline when Steve Jones had finished his morning session. Jones has been surfing for ten years; he …

I haven’t been yelled at too much

Name: Matt Nolan Age: 33 From: Mission Hills Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Matt Nolan has been surfing for three years. His main beaches are Tourmaline and La Jolla Shores, places that are good for beginner …

Mission Beach sandbars not what they were

Name: Cory Age: 45 From: Mission Beach Location: North Mission Beach Cory was walking up to the showers past the boardwalk when I stopped to talk with him. “I’ve been surfing for 25 years. It’s …

I'm still grabbing the rails

Name: Kris Manske Age: 43 Location: Ocean Beach Kris Manske was pulling a potato chip wrapper out of her wetsuit pocket right by the large lifeguard tower. “I found that out in the ocean”. Manske’s …

I just like unusual shapes

Name: Jason Yamaoka Age: 39 Location: Ocean Beach Jason Yamaoka stood on the sand a couple hundred yards north of the Ocean Beach pier under a patchy May sky after a morning surf. Yamaoka grew …

Seals and dolphins all the time

Name: Julian Malotti Age: 43 From: Clairemont Location: Ocean Beach It was a windy day at Ocean Beach when I approached Julian Malotti. “I’ve been surfing since 1986, when I was eleven. It’s a hobby, …

Longboard first

Name: Joshua Beneventi Age: 24 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach, near the Jetty Local surfer Joshua Beneventi has been surfing Ocean Beach since he was a kid. “I’ve been surfing on and off throughout …

Around surfing, but played football

Name: Tyler Vasquez Age: 24 From: La Mesa Location: Ocean Beach Tyler Vasquez was sitting on the beach, watching the waves and other surfers. “My buddies surf a lot, so I came out with them …

Guys with holes in wetsuits nar-doggin’ it

Name: Noah Roistacher Age: 22 From: the SDSU/College Area Location: Ocean Beach Noah Roistacher frequents O.B. a couple times a week. On this December early evening, Roistacher doesn’t mind the colder waters. “As long as …

The swell last week was six feet

Name: Jonathan Hays Age: 20 From: Ocean Beach Location: Ocean Beach On a December afternoon in Ocean Beach, Jonathan Hays is considering getting a warmer wetsuit. “Yeah a wetsuit is a must [in the winter]. …

Get barreled in Popotla

Name: Amanda Plesa Age: 23 From: Del Mar Location: Del Mar Beach Amanda Plesa has been a surf instructor for Fulcrum Surf School for five years. “We work with all the local high-schools and middle …

November 7, 2017
San Diego surf spots — if it's crowded, it's crowded

Name: Evan Harris Age: 22 From: Del Mar Location: Torrey Pines Evan Harris was heading to the water when I caught up with him on a cloudy day in Torrey Pines. Harris finds himself at …

October 31, 2017
El Cajon to La Jolla in the name of surf

Name: Margaret Sporleder Age: 20 From: El Cajon Occupation: Swim instructor and lifeguard Margaret Sporleder takes the 35-minute commute from El Cajon to La Jolla Shores. “The waves there don’t come in at an angle, …

October 10, 2017
It can be dangerous in Windansea

Name: William Farris Age: 34 Location: Windansea Beach It was a crowded day in Windansea when I caught up to William Farris, on the corner of Neptune and Fern Glen. The San Diegan started surfing …

September 11, 2017
Someone pushed me off the wave

Name: Derek Gerard Age: 13 Location: Ocean Beach Off Abbott Street, 13-year-old Derek Gerard was looking out at the water after a long surf session. “I just had a problem out there a couple of …

September 4, 2017
Girls cheer each other on

Name: Carla Verbrugghen Age: 54 Location: Ocean Beach Occupation: Surf Instructor Carla Verbrugghen and her daughter were at the showers in OB when I meet up with them. Verbrugghen has been surfing since she was …

August 28, 2017
Wetsuit gets stuck to my body

Name: Jonathan Du Age: 20 School: UCSD La Jolla Location: La Jolla Shores Near Life Tower 33 in La Jolla, Jonathan Du was heading to the showers after a day of surfing. The UCSD student …

August 22, 2017
Don't fight it

Name: Ray Vanta Age: 62 From: Clairemont area. Location: Tourmaline Surf Park Vanta ‘s surfing career all started when his kids wanted to learn. “I wanted to be with them.” “For good surfing I go …

August 15, 2017
We want to hug the ocean

Names: Holly Belasco and Heidi Johnson Ages: Both are 27 From: Imperial Beach and Mission Hills Location: Mission Beach Jetty Holly Belasco and Heidi Johnson surf together whenever they get the chance “When I saw …

July 31, 2017

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