Brandon Hernández 1 p.m., March 28
Once again, a sandwich board has steered me in the right direction. In South Park, I spotted the sign out front of the Food Bowl (3035 Cedar Street) that advertised “street-style tacos.” Sure enough, there was an EZUp tent slapped against the side of the building to shelter a couple of grills and a prep area.
Another sign requested that I pay for the 99-cent tacos inside, since it seems the taco stand is an extension of the grocery store and not an independent business operating on site, as is often the case with food trucks. I paid inside for my two tacos and went back outside to the tent where I saw something wonderful.
The girl working the table was pressing tortillas to order, taking scoops from a big bowl of dough. She made my tortillas and stuffed them with meat, one pork and one beef, then added the onion/cilantro/avocado combo to finish them off. She was generous with the meat, so two tacos made a good snack. The beef was typical carne asada and the pork was indistinguishable bits marinated in a kind of adobo-flavored stew. Neither of the meats was exceptional, but the freshly cooked tortillas were just amazing. They were supple and flavorful, a little ragged around the edges, and still steaming from the grill by the time I got a chance to eat them.
On the weekends, the stand has menudo, burritos, tamales, and pozole as well, but the little tacos for under a dollar are the deal of the millenium with those fresh tortillas any day of the week.
More like this:
- Coronado street taco wars: Costa Azul steps up to the plata! — April 2, 2013
- New "bar and kitchen" in Bay Park — Oct. 22, 2012
- Food truck lunch: Casanova Fish Tacos — Oct. 4, 2012
- Mulita Class on Golden Hill — Oct. 5, 2011
- Tamales, Tacos, Flies — Sept. 4, 2009