Walter Mencken 11:31 a.m., Feb. 1
I was first
Now, you must go get these special, Nordic popovers this weekend!
I don’t often get to say this, but I know for a fact I’m the first person to have the Thanksgiving “aebleskivers” (Danish pancakes, $4) from the North Park Roast Coach. The proprietress told me so. It’s the perfect time of year for these pre-Christmas, Scandinavian popovers and they go just fine with the fancy, single-cup-production coffee from the cart outside of Sea Rocket Bistro.
The dumplings are only available Friday through Sunday, and I’m willing to bet the Thanksgiving specials won’t stick around too long. They’re filled with vegetarian stuffing and cranberries, then topped with a splash of brown gravy. I’m hard-pressed to think of a perfect analogue to which I can liken the texture, they’re softer than gougeres and not as spongy as Chinese steamed buns, maybe a compromise between the two would get the idea across. Regardless, they were delicious and I highly recommend everyone run out and grab a few this weekend!
I would like to see a non-disposable dish option, for the record, because it seems eminently wasteful to utilize a clamshell container for people who intend to sit/stand around and nibble.
While you’re there, perhaps try some of the very good coffee. I recommend “the Turk.” ($3.50) Mint leaves soothe the mouth-numbing effect of cardamom and there’s a touch of cream and sugar to make things interesting. Otherwise, the cart has a trio of different roasts to try.
I do have to call shenanigans on hipsters who think “pour over” coffee is some new hotness. Melitta coffee sets have been around for a cool century and I grew up in a household where all the coffee was pour over...for no other reason than that my parents didn’t want to drink a whole pot of coffee at once. The deliciousness of the coffee at Roast Coach has very little to do with the labor-intensive, showy method; they just have good beans. Make pour over with Folgers and it will taste like Folgers.
None of this hipster bubble-popping should in any way deter the general public from going and eating lots of those tasty stuffing pancakes. Go get them. Seriously.
3382 30th Street
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