Jeff Smith 11:38 a.m., Sept. 27
A Brooklyn Pizzeria
Two slices of cheese pizza and a drink for $5; thus spake the sign in the window of A Brooklyn Pizzeria in North Park. It was the kind of sign that couldn't be ignored on an aimless afternoon spent searching for the right snack. Such is the way things go when the rains finally break after three relentless days.
The inside of Brooklyn had an unmistakably positive vibe. Something about the stacks of boxes and the hulking oven in the dark recesses of the kitchen was comforting, as though the building had been designed to emulate what a pizza place should look like. Out of place, but not unwelcome, were the paintings on the wall, one of which featured a Mexican style Mr. T.
It was tempting to take Mr. T home for the asking price of $85.
There's truth in advertising and two cheese slices, as well as a Dr. Pepper (easy on the ice), cost just north of five bucks when all was said and done and the tax man had his cut.
This was good pizza; pretty much everything a slice of 'za should be. No one flavor dominated, but the seamless whole was greater than the sum of its parts. The style at A Brooklyn Pizzeria seems to dictate a carefully balanced pie. The crust was thin enough that it wasn't doughy, but sturdy enough that the slice didn't fold immediately in half. Cheese and sauce were in balance and the greasiness was under control.
Make no mistake, this wasn't the elegant, next-generation pizza of somewhere like the BLAH; it was a much more plebian slice. But in that respect it excelled.
A Brooklyn Pizza (of which there are two other locations) prices its food on the cheap side. An entire large pizza is only $12.50, and it's an 18" pie, which is a large large. Additional toppings will send the price skywards pretty swiftly at $2 per item, but the specialty pizza's seldom exceed $19 for a large. Subs and sandwiches are all $6-$7, and the pasta dinners that come with salad and garlic bread are all under $10.
Delivery is free for orders over $15.
A Brooklyn Pizza
2358 University Avenue
Fri & Sat 11-11
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