Walter Mencken 2:37 p.m., March 1
The Unch Side of Snooze
A couple weeks ago, Mary Beth Abate filled you in on breakfast at Hillcrest’s newest “AM eatery,” Snooze.
Boasting natural free-range meats and cage-free eggs from the Bay Area Niman Ranch, Snooze offers an innovative menu specializing in benedicts, pancakes, and egg preparations from huevos rancheros to breakfast pot pie.
As a firm believer that breakfast is a meal best spent, uh, snoozing, I recently explored the unchier side of brunch at the Colorado-based chain, where, with the right set of eyes, one pictures the Jetsons ordering French toast and breakfast tacos on the far side the retro-themed bar.
Because every worthwhile meal begins with a responsible adult beverage, Snooze mixes up a number of unique mimosas, bloodys, and cocktails averaging at around $6. The Hi-C mimosa speaks for itself. Sparkling wine, grapefruit juice, Pama pomegranate liqueur, and St. Germaine liqueur give a sour punch to the classic morning mix.
A combination of the spicy and the Buggs bloody makes for the mary of dreams (carrot-infused vodka, jalapeño-and-habanero-infused vodka — you can spot large jars of the house-made infusions behind the bar — and mary mix) garnished with a cherry tomato, lemon slice, and what just might be the best pickle in the universe.
The brunch menu touts delights such as shrimp & grits, fish tacos, cheesesteak and eggs, burgers, and a BLT, but nothing says, “Hello, fine day” like a warm Reuben sammy.
The corned beef is locally made and the Udi’s pretzel roll is gluten free, though, to its credit, I didn’t know that until after I blissed out on the sandwich, which was made even awesomer yet when dipped in the yolk of my brunchmate’s Benedicto Tuscano (tomatoes, white beans, kale and squash on ciabatta bread with two poached eggs, cream cheese hollandaise, and shaved parmesan).
There’s that otherworldly pickle again.
And then — ye gods! — what’s this? A complimentary sweet-potato pancake for dessert? I mean, I don’t even like pancakes, but, covered in caramel, candied walnuts, a dash of powdered sugar, and ginger butter, this was a welcome finale to the meal.
The verdict? Not cheap, but not expensive either, and half orders are available, putting many meals at around five bucks because, as my lovely if not like-minded brunchmate said, "Sometimes you just want a little food and a lot of booze."
The atmosphere is fun, the service is outstanding, and the food is of considerable quality.
Get your unch on before breakfast is too far gone, as doors close at 2:30 p.m. daily.
3940 Fifth Avenue
Mon-Fri 6:30 am - 2:30 pm
Sat-Sun 7:00 am - 2:30 pm
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