Jeff Smith 10 a.m., July 29
Cozy Wine Pub could be good for going out before you go out
Point Loma’s Wine Pub bucks the trend of giving wine bars cutesie names. The space, however, is quite precious with its modern accents and vaguely nautical trim that seems appropriate to the neighborhood. The entire dining area is one, sweeping corner that made me feel like I was on the deck of a large yacht or, elseways out to sea. Still, it was cozy inside and the small tables and short bar all appealed to my wish for a quiet glass of wine and a snack.
The wine list wasn’t long by any stretch, but it didn’t need to be since one can only drink so much wine. It was heavy on the reds and affordable, having many glasses in the $6-$9 bracket. Wine Pub does get major points for serving my glass of oaked Chardonnay at a very good temperature. At non-snooty places, I’m often served these freezing cold glasses of white wine straight from a refrigerator. Even with bubbly wine thats too cold, and a fuller-bodied white really lives up to itself at a slightly warmer temperature. It’s nice, not having to wait for the wine to warm up in the glass before it tastes right!
Food-wise, Wine Pub offers a broader range of bites and plates than I’d expected. They had a few full-sized entrees ($12-$15), panini ($11-$13), and some soups/salads/small plates in the $5-$12 range. The selection was fairly pedestrian, with nothing to challenge the palate, the majority of the plates being “safe” choices. Shrimp cocktail was slightly overcooked, though far from offensive, and the sweet, spicy cocktail sauce had a huge kick of horseradish and chili.
I could see the likeable, albeit unadventurous, menu working well in first-date situations or other scenarios (perhaps entertaining conservative family members?) where showing prudence could be called for. Still, Wine Pub’s strength is definitely in its cute decor and easy wine list, selections from which are available retail if guests so desire. During summer, the patio could be a big draw, but it’s a little cold for that right now. With its early hours and quietude, Wine Pub would also be a potential stop at the beginning of an evening out.
2907 Shelter Island Drive
M-F 11:30-2:30 (lunch)