Jeff Smith noon, March 8
Little Bites of Heaven: The Pierogi Truck
My friend Kerri has never steered me wrong with a restaurant recommendation, so when she mentioned the Pierogi Truck for lunch, I couldn’t wait to try it.
Tom Bordyczewski and his mother, Bozena, originally from Poland, lived in Chicago for 16 years before moving to SoCal. The lack of Eastern European restaurants and an emerging mobile food industry inspired them to develop the first Polish gourmet food truck in the San Diego area.
The bright purple truck was parked in a cul-de-sac off Birch Canyon Place in Miramar this afternoon.
I ordered a combo of meat, potato/cheese, and mushroom/sauerkraut pierogi ($8 for six). The plump dumplings are boiled, then topped with buttery sautéed onions, crumbled bacon and chopped scallions. On the side was a generous dollop of garlicky-spiced sour cream.
The perfectly cooked dough was tender, but still firm and with just bit of chewiness. The potato/cheese filling was correctly made with farmer’s cheese and not the more common cheddar or cottage cheese of commercially available varieties. It also had the right spud/queso ratio. Top marks for both authenticity and taste. The meat pierogi was savory with finely chopped beef, flecked with carrot. Rounding out the dumpling trio was a fine juicy bite of earthy, tangy sauerkraut and mushroom that had nice crunch from the cabbage. Great texture and contrast to the smoother fillings of the other two.
The menu also features golabki (stuffed cabbage), grilled polish sausage (from Andy’s in Chicago), bigos (hunter’s stew), and Hungarian pancakes (potato pancake with pork goulash), Silesian dumplings with pork goulash, stuffed hoagies and vegan goulash. Several varieties of the pierogi are vegetarian-friendly; just have them leave off the crumbled bacon. Prices range from $7-$11, drinks are $1. A nice touch - credit cards are accepted.
The Pierogi Truck can be found at various San Diego locations, updated daily on their website and the usual social media.
7595 Vickers St.
San Diego, CA 92111