Walter Mencken 2:37 p.m., March 1
Pupuseria: Nely No More
The Salvadorian Pupuseria Nely (2479 Broadway, at 25th Street) has closed its doors.
The place is in the L-shaped shopping strip at 25th and Broadway and has had mixed reviews.
Their main thing was pupusas, which are kinda thick corn tortillas (think Mexican gorditas) stuffed with cheese only or cheese, frijoles, and a kind of pork paste. You always get a side of curtido, fermented cabbage slaw with red chillies and vinegar. Lots of customers who don’t know Central America get turned off, because they think it’s just old coleslaw.
I was down there once. San Salvador. And, yes, the whole milder Central America food thing took some getting used to. But once you’ve been, you become defensive about it, especially the food.
So I’m gonna miss them. If you want good pupusas now, guess you’ve gotta go to El Salvadoreño (2845 Imperial Avenue, 619-231-8254).