Dorian Hargrove 7:30 p.m., Feb. 21
Tijuana, Revolución Revolution
“Three course lunch with lemonade, $6,” says Augustin.
He’s standing between two cigar-chomping vaqueros. OK, they’re made of wood. But full-size. They guard El Museo, a new eatery at the bottom, oldest, part of Revolución, right by the “Reloj Monumental,” the big bicycle-wheel clock.
Dammit. If I only had time. Gotta be back up by two. But I stop anyway, because, one, this sounds like a heckuva deal, two, the place looks really interesting.
This 100-year-old building was a curio shop for the longest time. Now it's filled with bits and pieces of old TJ, like golden scrolled grills from the Caliente racetrack, at a bar the stars used to swing up to back in the ’40s, and a blackjack table Al Capone himself is sposed to have played at.
But the thing that really gets my juices flowing is when Augustin tells me their chef is Rosalba Rodríguez. She used to be at Cien Años, one of the great eateries in this town. That almost puts this place in Naomi territory. But price says this is for me.
Meantime, Horacio the waiter brings me a beer ($1). I give myself ten minutes to take in the old street and its new ways. Because seems to me there’s a quiet Revolución revolution happenin'. Business is totally down, yet people are building, making the sidewalks interesting, trying new ideas like, well, here, a museum you eat at. I’m coming back. Stay tuned.
Pictures: Horacio; Rosalba Rodriguez.