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John Piconi has used a lot of different wine labels in his nearly 40 years as a winemaker - you can see a few of them in the photo that accompanies my most recent column. But I have a soft spot for this one, which hails from his early years as an amateur. I can't help but thinking that if some winery adopted this style today, the austerity of it would make the label leap out from among the busy barnyard array of kangaroos, fish, frogs, cranes, and the like that crowd the grocery store shelves.

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