Ken Leighton 8 a.m., Jan. 18
Roast Bone Marrow recipe, from an expert
Roasted bone marrow is the latest restaurant craze, but of the last four times I tried it, it was overcooked to just plain bone two of those times, and really great only once. (These were all high-reputed new eateries.) It's not as easy to make it as it seems, but done right -- oh, man, it's carnivore heaven.
So I asked master-butcher Stan at Iowa Meats for his recipe. (Needless to say, Iowa Meats and Diestel Meats are the shops most likely to furnish you these divine bones.)
ROAST BONE MARROW
Despite all the fun we have around here, we are pretty serious about what we do. We've noticed more and more people wanting to buy marrow bones for roasting. But how to cook them? What is the proper technique for best results? We hit the books, we hit the internet. What we found was pretty interesting. Our first source is always “Larousse Gastromonique”. For about a hundred years, it has been the absolute bible of French cooking. The only reference to bone marrow was poaching. The same was true in “Mastering” and all the other books we traditionally use. The internet turned up a London chef named Fergus Henderson. He was featured in an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s show for ROASTING the marrow, and Tony called the roasted bone marrow one of the best things he has ever eaten. It is a super rich and decadent dish.
When shopping for bones: Just saying “marrow bones” doesn’t quite hit the mark. No two animals are alike and neither are their bones. The quality of the bone is going to depend on the breed and the age of the animal. Ask your butcher! Both of our stores sell literally hundreds of pounds of center cut femur bones every week. What we are going to do is handselect the best bones for roasting. They will be the ones with the thinnest bones and the thickest marrow. We will cut these in serving size pieces cut evenly so they will stand up properly. From that point, roast them for fifteen minutes at 450. You could almost call it “the frugal man’s foie gras”. In fact, we sort of think it should be treated just as you would foie gras. That means serving it with something that will cut the richness of the dish. Something sweet and something acidic. A classic foie gras presentation is with toast points and fresh blueberries. Also, a parsley salad recipe is ideal because it has those sweet/acid components. Now Dig in!
More like this:
- Foie Gras... or Faux Pas? — Dec. 3, 2012
- What the Foie? — June 26, 2012
- That's Enfoodtainment at Searsucker in the Gaslamp — Oct. 13, 2010
- The Big Eat — Feb. 18, 2009
- Oasis of Indulgence — June 7, 2007