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Remember Scott Harris?

He’s a nice, unpretentious guy, the Chicago restaurant chef-entrepreneur who bought out the old-line Zagarella restaurant in Little Italy. In its place, he was going to clone one of his Chicago-based Mia Francesca chain Italian eateries, with their love-me-do, doe-eyed-girl logo and their big-plates-for-medium-prices formula.

He’s had a change of heart: it’s not going to be Mia Francesca now. It’s gonna be… Davanti Enoteca.

Uh, say what? Davanti Enoteca? Dave's Aunty's Naughty Books? No, that can’t be right. Oh, Forward Wine?

Whatever, is this supposed to sound like wine sophisticate cognoscenti only need apply? Ex-clusive?

Like excluding you and me, the Great Unwashed?

At least Big-eyed Francesca seemed welcoming, in-clusive, like Little Italy’s own pioneers, who came largely from everyday Sicilian fishing families.

I'm sure it'll be great, enotica or not enotica. But I guess, bottom line, the prices will tell if we're all gonna be welcome.

Pictures: Zagarella, before the signs went down; Scott Harris

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