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File this under “worthy survivor.”

Talking about Meijo, located right out in left field on the edge of IB (Meijo Sushi, 600 Palm Avenue, Suite 300, Imperial Beach, 619-429-4373).

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Night view from Highway 75

As ShawnMichel blogged passionately (here in the Reader) three years ago, Meijo took over a graveyard-of-restaurants site eight years ago. They had come, they had gone. This one has stayed. Prospered.

I just happened in t’other night, a Wednesday, ’cause I had to wait for a 901 bus, and this was the nearest sign of life to the end-of-the-world bus stop.

And guess what? Place was hopping. Two groups waiting ahead of me. They told me this town has adopted Meiji because it’s clean, cheery, doesn’t overcharge, gives you lots, and they, well, make you feel they actually like their customers.

It certainly has interesting-sounding nosh. Like, tiger eyes — calamari stuffed with salmon — for $8.95, and dream rolls (tempura shrimp, avocado, and cream cheese inside, tuna, shrimp, and spicy crab outside).

That one's a touch pricey at $11.95. But they always have specials like teriyaki chicken with fried gyoza (dumpling), $5.95; shrimp and beef curry with salad, $5.95; spicy tuna hand rolls, three pieces $8.95; and sushi mix, $8.95.

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I got sushi mix (five different kinds of fish on rice, plus nine sushi rolls, $8.95). I also got a piping hot bottle of sake, ’cause it only cost $3.50.

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Nice touches like beautiful plates make the food feel classy. (This was a neighbor's.)

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Main thing: it's just nice in there. Not luxurious. Comfortable, like we’re all on a raft and we'd better get on.

Definitely worth missing a bus for (which, natch, I did).

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